{"id":63253,"date":"2017-07-26T14:29:14","date_gmt":"2017-07-26T12:29:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/?p=63253"},"modified":"2017-08-24T15:51:04","modified_gmt":"2017-08-24T13:51:04","slug":"incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/en\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso","title":{"rendered":"Southern Italy: barocco paradiso"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em><span class=\"CharOverride-8\">Report Serge Barret ;<\/span><span class=\"CharOverride-9\">\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"CharOverride-8\">Photos<\/span><span class=\"CharOverride-9\">\u00a0Alain Parinet.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p>\"\u00a0<em>As you drive through the Apulian countryside, you'll see that there's no shortage of masseria...<\/em>says Caroline Groszer, a Swiss-born hotelier who has been based in the south of Italy for almost ten years. <em>In the past, they were fortified farms; some against invaders, but more generally against organised gangs. Today, some are in ruins, others still function as farms, but above all, many have been transformed into country houses, bed and breakfasts or small hotels of varying sophistication. Come and have a look at mine: I've turned it into a boutique hotel, and I've really put my heart into it!<\/em>\".<\/p>\n<p>With all her heart, to say the least. Because, if you were expecting to come across <strong>an old farmhouse still in its original state<\/strong>If you could imagine rediscovering everything that made up the vocabulary of a South Italy that was once rural to the core, in this case the poor Puglia of the early twentieth century, then you'd have been right.<sup>e<\/sup> If you'd imagined all that, then you're in for a big disappointment. The Masseria Alchimia is to a fortified farm what the Ch\u00e2teau de Versailles is to a block of flats.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_63261\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-63261\" style=\"width: 700px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_12.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-63261 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_12.jpg\" alt=\"Emblematic of the rural habitat since the 16th century, most masserie have abandoned their agricultural function to become charming guesthouses (here, the Masseria Alchemia).\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_12.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_12-300x200-derived.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-63261\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Emblematic of the rural habitat since the 16th century, most masserie have abandoned their agricultural function to become charming guesthouses (here, the Masseria Alchemia).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>More and more jet set<\/h2>\n<p>Of course, the old basic structure is still there, a square tower topped by a surviving machicolation. But for the rest, and under the original vaults, almost everything has been recomposed, reinterpreted and, of course, painted in the traditional whitewash. The recessed volumes are reminiscent of a design by Le Corbusier, while the minimalist decor favours Arte Povera sculptures and contemporary art canvases. The whole place is set in the middle of the countryside, surrounded by three hundred-year-old olive trees, giant cacti, fragrant bunches of rosemary and low dry stone walls built along paths that gently follow the contours of the land. All in all, it's the epitome of the Italian south, which is fast becoming one of the world's most fashionable destinations. Madonna, who stayed at the region's classy Borgo Egnazia resort last summer, made no mistake; the <strong>England's glamorous royal family<\/strong>who was in the same hotel in the spring, either.<\/p>\n<p>The opposite would be surprising. For the region, nestled in the heel of Italy's boot, has just about everything that makes up contemporary top-of-the-range tourism, both leisure and corporate: <strong>a rich culture<\/strong>The region's unique vernacular architecture, medieval and baroque towns, delicate countryside landscapes, white sandy beaches, secluded coves and superb cuisine. Not to mention the safety and proximity criteria that are essential today, particularly for business customers.<\/p>\n<p>Masseria Alchimia is located in the countryside surrounding Fasano. Not that the town is one of the most beautiful in the area, even if a few Baroque buildings liven up the historic centre nicely, but Fasano's appeal lies in its strategic position: all the cities, towns, ports and remarkable villages - at least fifteen of them - are an hour's drive from its central square. The maximum. So, in true Italian style, or in other words, piano piano, you have to take it easy, leaving yourself plenty of time for peace and quiet, coffee breaks and restaurant stops that are inevitably punctuated by a parade of dishes. <strong>oh, the number of dishes, oh, the antipasti!<\/strong> - showcasing the very best the region has to offer.<\/p>\n<p>In fact, the whole stay will be marked by <strong>exceptional gastronomy<\/strong>The region is one of the richest in the peninsula. And while we're at it, we'll get down to business first thing in the morning in Polignano a Mare - an all-white village, perched almost overhanging a cliff whipped up by the sea - with a cappuccino or caff\u00e8, as the Italians like it, accompanied by pasticciotti di Lecce, regional pastries to die for. Then there are the first narrow streets, the first piazzas, the first chapels, the first craftsmen, including a very contemporary master glassmaker, Peppino Campanella, and an incredible beach tucked away at the bottom of a natural ravine right in the centre of town.<\/p>\n<h2>Baroque and rococo<\/h2>\n<p>Then, passing back through Fasano, a little further inland and infinitely more spectacular, we come to white Ostuni, the 'citt\u00e0 bianca' (white town) on a knoll overlooking the olive-grove-covered plain down to the sea. Wandering through the city - whose winding streets are reminiscent of ancient oriental cities - is also an opportunity to grasp a little of its turbulent history. Its own in particular, and that of Puglia in general. Towers, forts, high walls, arcades, ogives, Romanesque-Gothic in the cathedral, Rococo in the churches and Baroque on the front of the houses... but above all, above all, <strong>a luminous harmony<\/strong> despite countless successive occupations by Greeks, Romans, Lombards, Saracens, Byzantines, Normans, Aragonese and Bourbons...<ul id=\"tararama-1\" class=\"bxslider\"><li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_110.jpg\" alt=\"Sheltered from the scorching summer sun, the narrow streets of Ostuni alternate between medieval charm and Oriental mazes.\" title=\"Sheltered from the scorching summer sun, the narrow streets of Ostuni alternate between medieval charm and Oriental mazes.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_80.jpg\" alt=\"The Arco Scoppa. This eighteenth-century suspended loggia adds to the luminous charm of the &quot;citt\u00e0 bianca&quot;, the white city of winding, steep streets.\" title=\"The Arco Scoppa. This eighteenth-century suspended loggia adds to the luminous charm of the &quot;citt\u00e0 bianca&quot;, the white city of winding, steep streets.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_409.jpg\" alt=\"A watchtower reminding us that Puglia has been coveted and sometimes occupied by just about every conqueror in Europe.\" title=\"A watchtower reminding us that Puglia has been coveted and sometimes occupied by just about every conqueror in Europe.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<script type=\"application\/javascript\">\n    jQuery(document).ready(function($) {\n        $('#tararama-1').bxSlider({\n            mode: 'fade',\n            captions: true,\n            adaptiveHeight: true,\n            auto: true,\n            pause: 4000\n        });\n    });\n<\/script>\n<\/p>\n<p>In summer, the density of tourists, shoulder to shoulder, spoils the magic a little. But that's no problem for corporate groups, who are generally lucky enough to travel out of season. So they take the opportunity to sit down under the roof of a small traditional trattoria - Osteria Monacelle, for example, which can be made private for the occasion - and indulge in a farandole of antipasti specialities from Puglia; a dozen or more appetisers which, on their own, make up a very copious meal, and which are served with love by a cook who takes great care of them.<\/p>\n<p>But the most extravagant site, the most visited, and also the most decried because of the number of souvenir vendors, is to be found in Alberobello, around twenty minutes away. Listed as a World Heritage Site, and that goes without saying... The result is a complete village of over 1,000 trulli, <strong>incredible little conical houses<\/strong> Built from dry stone, without any mortar whatsoever, the exceptional concentration of houses gives a real impression of a village of dolls, leprechauns or goblins, the choice is yours, especially as the roofs are generally decorated with Christian or esoteric symbols.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_63265\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-63265\" style=\"width: 700px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_159.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63265\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_159.jpg\" alt=\"Crowds flock to Alberobello to discover the thousand little doll&#039;s houses known as trulli. But you only have to stray a little, or come early in the morning, to escape the huge mess of souvenir vendors.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_159.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_159-300x200-derived.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-63265\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crowds flock to Alberobello to discover the thousand little doll's houses known as trulli. But you only have to stray a little, or come early in the morning, to escape the huge mess of souvenir vendors.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Their origins date back to the second half of the 16th century.<sup>e<\/sup>This was the case when the royal tax was levied on masonry constructions. As a result, farmers began to build these curious mushrooms, which could be easily dismantled thanks to a clever assembly of flat stones. With few or no windows, one or more interconnected conical roofs, a chimney, a door and there you have it...<\/p>\n<p>Today, in Alberobello, almost all of them have been converted into shops, bars, B&amp;Bs and restaurants. On the other hand, in the surrounding countryside - the beautiful countryside of the Itria Valley - they are generally converted into chic, rustic holiday homes. This has the advantage of ensuring their preservation and upkeep. Punctuating <strong>a landscape of hills and meadows<\/strong> They add a touch of mystery, a sense of a not-so-distant world where magic reigned supreme.<\/p>\n<p>Locorotondo, just two minutes away, has chosen a completely different building style, following the curves of a neighbouring hill whose slopes are home to a few scattered trulli. Its whitewashed cube-shaped houses, adorned with chunky, flower-filled balconies, are so close together that it's hard to tell them apart. It's delightful. So complete that the town is <strong>on the list of the 100 most beautiful villages in Italy<\/strong>... And it's the same all over the region: fifteen or so towns, identical in their Italian character and yet all different, offer the best of history, architecture, art history and, incidentally, the art of living.<\/p>\n<p>So it is with Martina Franca and its ducal palace, then with Cisterno and the caf\u00e9 terraces of piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II. The same goes for the port of Monopoli and its loggia palace, a testament to its Venetian past. Finally, on the way back, it's that other tiny fishing port, Savelletri, where you can indulge on the terrace of Pescheria 2 Mari in the sacrosanct tradition of aperitivo, a slightly lighter version of the usual bombardment of antipasti.<\/p>\n<p>In this case, and since we're by the sea, <strong>raw fish and more raw fish<\/strong>It's a deliciously fresh dish, sliced or tartared, with olive oil or herbs, all fresh out of the water. It's enough to make a top Japanese restaurant sashimi green with rage. It's amazing how light the cuisine can be in Puglia. It's true that you eat all the time and a lot, to say the least, but the dishes are generally accompanied by just about everything the Mediterranean has to offer in the way of legumes. Including, for example, thistle stalks, which are cooked in soup or au gratin.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_63531\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-63531\" style=\"width: 700px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_251.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63531\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_251.jpg\" alt=\"Rural, Puglia is also a seaside region, with pretty little ports such as Santa Caterina.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_251.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_251-300x200-derived.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-63531\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rural, Puglia is also a seaside region, with pretty little ports such as Santa Caterina.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>A real cinema set<\/h2>\n<p>Without totally abandoning the deep rural character that is omnipresent in this region of Italy, we venture a little further south towards the infinitely more sophisticated urban, with Baroque in abundance, palaces, town houses, bishoprics and churches crumbling under lacework of blond stone.<\/p>\n<p>We'll start with Nardo, a little softer on the subject than its neighbour Lecce; a sure way to make the transition smoothly. Narrow streets, twists and turns, pink or soft ochre walls with the patina of time... in either case, <strong>an incredible charm<\/strong> which shines the spotlight on Piazza Salandra, undoubtedly the most beautiful, the most homogenous piazza in southern Italy, with balconies, loggias, arcades, colonnades, a central monument erected by the survivors of the terrible earthquake of 1743, a church too and lively caf\u00e9 terraces in the evenings. \"<em>Countless films set in Havana have been filmed in Nardo.<\/em>It's a great place to stay,\" says Antonello Rizzello, owner of two boutique hotels set in historic buildings in the city centre, one in a former palace and the other in a monastery. \"<em>Here<\/em>he continues. <em>I only travel by bike. In fact, that's what I advise my clients to do, so they can take the opportunity to ride through the countryside and stop off at one of the local beaches or a nearby cove.<\/em>\"<ul id=\"tararama-2\" class=\"bxslider\"><li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_280.jpg\" alt=\"For centuries, life in Puglia revolved around large farmhouses. In some cases, the decor is still reminiscent of times gone by (here, the Masseria Brusca).\" title=\"For centuries, life in Puglia revolved around large farmhouses. In some cases, the decor is still reminiscent of times gone by (here, the Masseria Brusca).\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_273.jpg\" alt=\"Like many others, Masseria Brusca has its own church. But it also boasts one of the finest walled gardens in Italy.\" title=\"Like many others, Masseria Brusca has its own church. But it also boasts one of the finest walled gardens in Italy.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<script type=\"application\/javascript\">\n    jQuery(document).ready(function($) {\n        $('#tararama-2').bxSlider({\n            mode: 'fade',\n            captions: true,\n            adaptiveHeight: true,\n            auto: true,\n            pause: 4000\n        });\n    });\n<\/script>\n<\/p>\n<p>Duly noted. So we set off by bike for a short day's ride, with a picnic in the soft grass. It's easy, the country is flat... In a silence barely disturbed by a few bumblebees on the prowl, he gives hundreds, <strong>thousands of ageless olive trees<\/strong>This is a place where you'll be able to enjoy the sunshine, pine trees, just enough wind to make the girls' hair fly, white paths that crunch under the wheels of a bicycle, a couple on horseback, meadows surrounded by low dry stone walls and an 18th-century masseria.<sup>e<\/sup> century Masseria Brusca - with its own church and one of the most beautiful walled gardens in Italy. The noble owners are more than happy to show visitors around, and even have a small shop selling the products of their estate: cheese, honey and oil.<ul id=\"tararama-3\" class=\"bxslider\"><li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_366.jpg\" alt=\"The villas in the Cenate district of Nardo blend Moorish influences with the Liberty style, the Italian version of Art Nouveau. \" title=\"The villas in the Cenate district of Nardo blend Moorish influences with the Liberty style, the Italian version of Art Nouveau. \" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_299.jpg\" alt=\"In Nardo, the Hotel Il Mignano has dedicated the walls of an ancient palazzo to exclusive hospitality.\" title=\"In Nardo, the Hotel Il Mignano has dedicated the walls of an ancient palazzo to exclusive hospitality.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_240.jpg\" alt=\"Nardo&#039;s Piazza Salandra is a treasure trove of unity.\" title=\"Nardo&#039;s Piazza Salandra is a treasure trove of unity.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<script type=\"application\/javascript\">\n    jQuery(document).ready(function($) {\n        $('#tararama-3').bxSlider({\n            mode: 'fade',\n            captions: true,\n            adaptiveHeight: true,\n            auto: true,\n            pause: 4000\n        });\n    });\n<\/script>\n<\/p>\n<p>It's like that all the way down to the sea, which has the good taste to be almost Caribbean in its coves. Basically, <strong>absolute happiness<\/strong> which the corporate groups are sure to appreciate. On the way back, cyclists will be in for a big surprise in the suburbs of Nardo, with an 'eclectic' district of villas - or rather castelets - in the Liberty style, which is to Italy what Modernism is to Catalonia, Art Nouveau to Belgium and Jugendstil to Germany. In Nardo, this style is often inspired by oriental architecture, resulting in extravagant 'Moorish villas'. Some of the owners, some of the very highest nobility, willingly open their doors to small groups and entrust their lounges and gardens to the organisers of chic cocktail parties.<\/p>\n<ul id=\"tararama-4\" class=\"bxslider\"><li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_33.jpg\" alt=\"There are century-old olive trees and low dry stone walls along the paths.\" title=\"There are century-old olive trees and low dry stone walls along the paths.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_339.jpg\" alt=\"There are vines too, and a few mischievous goats here and there.\" title=\"There are vines too, and a few mischievous goats here and there.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_395.jpg\" alt=\"A bike ride along the winding lanes and you&#039;re in for a dolce vita picnic under the olive trees. \" title=\"A bike ride along the winding lanes and you&#039;re in for a dolce vita picnic under the olive trees. \" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<script type=\"application\/javascript\">\n    jQuery(document).ready(function($) {\n        $('#tararama-4').bxSlider({\n            mode: 'fade',\n            captions: true,\n            adaptiveHeight: true,\n            auto: true,\n            pause: 4000\n        });\n    });\n<\/script>\n\n<p>To round off the trip in style, spend a day and a night in Lecce, nicknamed the Florence of the South, half an hour by motorway from Nardo. <strong>A real firework display<\/strong>This is a Baroque theatre scene that spares no expense in macaroons, caryatids, cheeky cherubs, mischievous animals or remarkably elaborate balconies and balustrades... in short, a stage for all the world's architectural fantasies, whether on the palaces still inhabited by ultra-refined nobility or on the facades of churches and cathedrals. In the squares too, like the unmissable Piazza del Duomo, which is even more beautiful at night, when the skilfully-adjusted spotlights illuminate it. The same goes for the sublime fa\u00e7ade of the Basilica Santa Croce, and in fact, it's the same everywhere in the labyrinth of the old city. A city so well-mannered that it prevents boredom by offering a surprise around every corner, on every porch and in every window...<ul id=\"tararama-5\" class=\"bxslider\"><li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_444.jpg\" alt=\"In the centre of Lecce, a number of craftsmen specialise in one of the city&#039;s most famous creations, statuary in &quot;crushed&quot; paper.\" title=\"In the centre of Lecce, a number of craftsmen specialise in one of the city&#039;s most famous creations, statuary in &quot;crushed&quot; paper.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_463.jpg\" alt=\"Gilding and trompe-l&#039;\u0153il: Lecce Cathedral is a showcase for Baroque exuberance.\" title=\"Gilding and trompe-l&#039;\u0153il: Lecce Cathedral is a showcase for Baroque exuberance.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<script type=\"application\/javascript\">\n    jQuery(document).ready(function($) {\n        $('#tararama-5').bxSlider({\n            mode: 'fade',\n            captions: true,\n            adaptiveHeight: true,\n            auto: true,\n            pause: 4000\n        });\n    });\n<\/script>\n<\/p>\n<h2>Star chefs take inspiration<\/h2>\n<p>So if you want to get away from it all, don't hesitate to take a 15-minute drive out of town to the village of Squizano and discover the breathtaking Salento, as this part of Puglia is known. What's there to do? A cookery class, of course! Groups of between two and 50 people love them. All the more so as the lessons are given by real local housewives under the guidance of Ylenia Sambati, who sometimes come in groups of ten to share the experience to music, <strong>nothing less than Pavarotti<\/strong>The chefs of the day will be able to share their little secrets. And to top chefs too, with a number of renowned professionals from northern Europe travelling especially for this event, as well as, closer to home, the very French Guy Martin. The setting, especially the village square, is worth the diversions in itself, with a d\u00e9cor straight out of 1960s Italy, a sort of Cinema Paradiso frozen in time, with a bistro in its prime and curious grandpas sitting on the public benches. Except, of course, at siesta time.<\/p>\n<ul id=\"tararama-6\" class=\"bxslider\"><li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_570.jpg\" alt=\"In Squizano, a cookery course accompanied by a tasting of one of Italy&#039;s finest wines, Nerio Schola Sarmenti. \" title=\"In Squizano, a cookery course accompanied by a tasting of one of Italy&#039;s finest wines, Nerio Schola Sarmenti. \" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<li><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_115.jpg\" alt=\"In Lyon, it&#039;s the &#039;m\u00e8res&#039; who have made the local restaurants famous. In Puglia, it&#039;s the &#039;mamma&#039; who passes on her generosity behind the stoves of her trattoria. Here, Osteria Monacelle in Ostuni.\" title=\"In Lyon, it&#039;s the &#039;m\u00e8res&#039; who have made the local restaurants famous. In Puglia, it&#039;s the &#039;mamma&#039; who passes on her generosity behind the stoves of her trattoria. Here, Osteria Monacelle in Ostuni.\" loading=\"eager\"\/><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<script type=\"application\/javascript\">\n    jQuery(document).ready(function($) {\n        $('#tararama-6').bxSlider({\n            mode: 'fade',\n            captions: true,\n            adaptiveHeight: true,\n            auto: true,\n            pause: 4000\n        });\n    });\n<\/script>\n\n<p>In the evening, back at the Hotel Fiermontina, tired and perhaps a little tipsy, because the cookery classes are accompanied by a tasting of excellent wines from the region, we'll linger in the lounge where the fascinating Antonia Filali, owner of the hotel, tells the story of her region with great humour: the contempt of the Italians from the north for those from the south, the clich\u00e9s, and also the little story of this Italy that was once very poor, without much of a future, and a land of emigration. Including that of her family members... and what family members they are! With <strong>fabulous destinies<\/strong>The kind you only see in the movies. A grandmother of such beauty that she would undoubtedly be a top model today and who, leaving at the age of 17 in the late 20s, became the muse and then the wife of the French sculptor Jacques Zwobada. Better still, the story of her great-uncle. At just 14, he walked to Rome to become a boxer and soon became Italian champion, then married no less than Madeleine Astor in New York before moving to Hollywood and a career in film. All told in a phrasing that would have you rolling on the floor. And, this being Puglia, with a generous aperitif in the background, of course.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_63537\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-63537\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_266.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63537\" src=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_266.jpg\" alt=\"Along the coast, nature parks and protected reserves preserve a natural environment that retains a delicately wild character. Near Ostuni, the coastal dunes park, dotted here and there with ponds and rivers, Romanesque churches and fortified masserie, leads to long stretches of beach where the sea takes on Caribbean tones.\" width=\"500\" height=\"749\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_266.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_266-200x300-derived.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-63537\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Along the coast, nature parks and protected reserves preserve a natural environment that retains a delicately wild character. Near Ostuni, the coastal dunes park, dotted here and there with ponds and rivers, Romanesque churches and fortified masserie, leads to long stretches of beach where the sea takes on Caribbean tones.<\/figcaption><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"seriesmeta\">Article 1 of 2 in this dossier <a href=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/en\/destination\/southern-italy-barocco-paradiso\" class=\"series-1729\" title=\"Special report - Southern Italy: barocco paradiso\">Special report - Southern Italy: barocco paradiso<\/a><\/div><p>The Puglia region in southern Italy has only recently opened up to tourism. It's a top-of-the-range type of tourism - cultural, bucolic and seaside - that appeals to corporate groups. All generously punctuated by a gastronomy to die for. <\/p>","protected":false},"author":23,"featured_media":63255,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[97],"tags":[1211,1525],"type-darticle":[],"n_magazine":[1733],"class_list":["post-63253","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-destinations-incentive","tag-italie","tag-team-building","series-italie-du-sud-barocco-paradiso","n_magazine-n153","vapo-free"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.9 (Yoast SEO v25.9) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Voyage incentive dans les Pouilles : barocco paradiso<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"La r\u00e9gion des Pouilles, dans le sud de l\u2019Italie, joue la carte haut de gamme, \u00e0 la fois culturelle et bucolique, baln\u00e9aire et gastronomique.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/en\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Italie du Sud : barocco paradiso\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La r\u00e9gion des Pouilles, dans le sud de l\u2019Italie, joue la carte haut de gamme, \u00e0 la fois culturelle et bucolique, baln\u00e9aire et gastronomique.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/en\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Voyages d&#039;affaires\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2017-07-26T12:29:14+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2017-08-24T13:51:04+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_51.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"700\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"434\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Serge Barret\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Serge Barret\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"16 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso\",\"name\":\"Voyage incentive dans les Pouilles : barocco paradiso\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_51.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2017-07-26T12:29:14+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2017-08-24T13:51:04+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/#\/schema\/person\/a076563a210d273a5b25aa8b1f42712f\"},\"description\":\"La r\u00e9gion des Pouilles, dans le sud de l\u2019Italie, joue la carte haut de gamme, \u00e0 la fois culturelle et bucolique, baln\u00e9aire et gastronomique.\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/incentive-pouilles-barocco-paradiso#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_51.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\/\/www.voyages-d-affaires.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/les-pouilles_51.jpg\",\"width\":700,\"height\":434,\"caption\":\"Sur son promontoire rocheux rong\u00e9 par les vagues, Polignano a Mare s\u2019organise autour de maisons toutes blanches accroch\u00e9es aux falaises. 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