Laos has long suffered from being landlocked between China, Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia. This situation has contributed to its slow economic development. But it has also probably protected it from the throes of forced modernisation on the Asian continent since the 1980s. This is still evident today in the streets of Vientiane, a quiet cityfar from the hustle and bustle that characterises BangkokHanoi, Phnom Penh or Ho Chi Minh City.
The capital of Laos, with just over 700,000 inhabitants and a population of one million in its conurbation, is characterised by an art of living that some would describe as somewhat indolent. But that's not the least of its charms. Since the Covid crisis, Laos has been trying to returning to growth. The latter was boosted in the 2000s by its membership of ASEAN and by an increasingly massive Chinese presence.
However, the pandemic has undermined the development of recent years. Laos is now faced with a massive debt and a local currency whose exchange rate has plummeted. While one euro was worth 9,700 Kip at the end of February 2020 (just before the closure of the borders with Covid), four years later it is worth around 23,700 Kip.
While investment continues, particularly in infrastructure, it is mainly controlled by China and Thailand, which account for 68.5% of all Lao trade. At the same time, France is the country's main Western partner and the seventh largest foreign investor over the decade. French companies operating in the country include EDF (Nam Theun 2 hydroelectric dam), BRED (Banque Franco-Lao) and Essilor.
French influences
Laos welcomed 3.5 million international visitors in 2023, attracted in large part by its untamed nature, but also by the country's simple and somewhat nonchalant lifestyle. Vientiane is partly a reflection of this, but as the capital, it also appeals to business and MICE travellers.
Since the reopening of borders to international travellers following the Covid, Vientiane has come back to life. For business tourists, the city offers many advantages The Mekong region between China and Thailand, particularly since the opening of the high-speed line between Vientiane and China (see box). The relatively low cost of living and a hotel offer that continues to improve year after year contribute to this attraction.
For their part, French-speaking travellers appreciate the remnants of a French influence. Influences that can be seen in the street names, in the long avenue Lane Xang copied from the Champs-Elysées with its triumphal arch, but also in the last colonial villas still visible, in its wine bars and through its crispy baguettes which the locals like to eat with pâté... mixed with green papaya and covered in chilli sauce!
Above all, travellers from France will find a multitude of boutique hotels with French names and inspiration, such as "La Seine", "Le Charme", "Le Luxe" and "Villa de Mekong". Generally, these three- or four-star establishments offer good standards of service at very reasonable prices, often under €80.
Hotel fever in Vientiane
Reasonable hotel prices are mainly due to increased competition in the Laotian capital. For the last five years, Vientiane's hotel market is changing fast, very fast. Around ten chain hotels have been or will be added to the 10,000 or so existing rooms in the capital. These include the first two hotels in the IHG group, Crowne Plaza and Holiday Inn & Suites, located opposite each other. Accor is present with a single Ibis in the historic centre, as is Best Western, which has been present since 2019 with the SureStay brand.
To take things a step further, in 2024 alone, Vientiane will see the opening of more than 550 new chain hotel rooms. To which will be added almost 400 rooms by 2025. Radisson is due to open its first hotel in the capital in the fourth quarter. It will be a four-star hotel under the Radisson RED brand, offering 145 rooms. At the same time, the DoubleTree by Hilton will open in the heart of the historic city. The 188-room establishment has had to postpone its opening several times, mainly because of the Covid crisis.
However, most of the new chain hotels in the capital are owned by Thai brands. Eastin was one of the first, with a 97-room four-star hotel opened in the middle of the pandemic, in 2022. Centara Hotels & Resort, meanwhile, inaugurated a 95-room COSI lifestyle hotel in March. The third quarter also sees the debut of a 248-room, four-star Amari.
The powerful Thai group Minorthe parent company of Anantara and NH Hotels, has also launched a gigantic projectThe new Avani Lane Xang will probably open in mid-2025. Located close to the Brunei embassy, this five-star establishment in French neo-colonial style will offer 273 rooms.
Finally, French travellers are likely to appreciate the brand new Souphattra Heritage hotel, owned by a Laotian group. In one of the capital's quiet streets, the new boutique hotel with its 26 rooms, is a little jewel of French colonial style with its two main houses and 26 very romantic rooms. It competes with the only true colonial hotel in Vientiane, the Settha Palace. Opened in the 1930s under the name "Bungalow", the hotel was restored to its former glory in 1999 by its original owner.
All these new hotels are ideal for organising MICE or conferences an alternative to the highly unattractive Lao ITECCthe exhibition and convention centre, inaugurated in 2016. Or the Lao National Convention Centre, which is a little nicer but more central.
New hotels, an increasing number of contemporary restaurants and bistros, modern shopping centres, the extension of the high-speed train line to Thailand this July: all this is giving Vientiane a boost. And it's going to put an end to its nickname of "sleeping beauty".
PRACTICAL GUIDE
GETTING THERE
The capital of Laos, Vientiane, is +5 hours behind France in summer and +6 hours in winter. There are no direct flights to EuropeHowever, there are easy connections via Bangkok (Thai Airways International, Lao Airlines and Air Asia) or Hanoi (Vietnam Airlines in code share with Air France).
Alternatively, Vientiane can be reached via Singapore (Singapore Airlines/Scoot) or Udon Thani airport in Thailand, an hour and a quarter from the border with Laos.
Visas can be obtained on the spot or electronically (https://www.laoevisa.gov.la/index) for a single entry entitling the holder to a 14-day stay.
STAY
- Souphattra Heritage Hotel (5 stars-26 rooms): a new colonial-style hotel in the heart of the historic town (https://souphattra.com/).
- Settha Palace Hotel (5 stars-29 rooms): The only historic establishment in Vientiane built in 1932 during the French era (https://www.setthapalace.com/).
- Green Park Boutique Hotel (4 stars - 33 rooms): close to the Faculty of Medicine and the French Embassy, this attractive hotel is made up of Laotian-style pavilions set in a large garden with a swimming pool (reservation@greenparkboutiquehotel.com)
- Le Charme Hotel (3 stars-44 rooms): In a small building dating from the 60s, rooms inspired by art deco. Restaurant and swimming pool in a patio (https://lecharmevientiane.com)
- Ibis Vientiane Nam Phu (3 stars-64 rooms): a contemporary hotel in the historic heart of Vientiane (https://all.accor.com).
EAT
Laotian cuisine has many similarities with Thai cuisine. It is, however, less sweet than its neighbour, but just as delicious. Aubergine stew (Lo-Lam), minced meat and mint salad (Laab), noodle soup with spicy coconut milk (Khao Poun) and green papaya salad are all classics.
- Kua Lao Vientiane: a classic for visitors to Vientiane, this restaurant serving Laotian specialities offers cuisine adapted to Western tastes in a French colonial house (https://www.kualaorestaurant.com/).
- Khop Chai Deu Khop Cha Deu: restaurant of the Laotian tourism group Inthira, Khop Cha Deu offers excellent Laotian and international cuisine. It is also a popular bar for expats and young Laotians (https://www.inthira.com/restaurants-bars/khop-chai-deu/).
- 525Eat&Drink A 70s villa turned bar and restaurant where you can dine on French-inspired dishes in a pretty garden far from the noise of the street...
BUY
- Carol Cassidy Lao Textiles splendid ethnic silk and cotton fabrics by American designer Carol Cassidy in a former colonial house (http://www.laotextiles.com)
- Ministry of Silk Elegant silk garments with a very fifties look (https://www.ministryofsilk.com/)
- The first Salon de Thé Local delicatessen: as well as local crafts, this shop sells a wide range of local delicatessen products including rice, whiskies, teas, coffees and honeys (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057402880624).
WATCH
- Temples Wat Phra Keo (now a museum of religious art), Wat Sisakhet, the capital's oldest temple, and the golden stupa of Pha That Luang, the symbol of the city.
- The National Museum of Laos is interesting for its very communist approach to the country's history. A real leap into the 70s and 80s.
- Patuxay triumphal archMore for the magnificent view from the roof than for the slightly kitsch architecture...
- Rue Samsenthai with its line of houses reminiscent of a small French provincial town. Today it is home to craft and antique shops, restaurants and bars.
INFORMATION
- French Embassy in Laos : https://la.ambafrance.org/
- Laos Tourist Office : https://www.tourismlaos.org/
