Milan, capital of risotto

"Once upon a time, the Sforza family commissioned a Renaissance painter to decorate the ceilings of Milan's Duomo, says Simone Dimitri, the maître d' of the Michelin-starred restaurant belonging to the Trussardi label. As he does every morning, the painter arrives with a box containing his lunch. That day, he was painting light with gold leaf and saffron. But, as a result of a clumsy mistake, some saffron yellow ended up in the bowl of beef rice. The painter ate his lunch anyway, and it was a revelation. Risotto à la Milanese was born. It was officially served for the first time at the wedding of the Duke of Sforza's daughter."Si non è vero, è ben trovato! Risotto is the quintessential Milanese dish, with a thousand and one variations. The best place to discover it is at Casa Fontana 23 Risotti. A veritable institution. Roberto Fontana and his Mauritian wife are always ready to explain the rule of three that governs every true risotto. First of all, the stock is prepared by sautéing onions, butter and white wine, then the rice is cooked in stock, and finally the risotto is cooked. mantecaturaThe final touch that makes it creamy. At Roberto Fontana, risotti can be delicatiSapori are more traditional, like the traditional Milanese risotto; luganegawith sausage and red wine. But the variations also depend on the seasons, the market and the inspiration of the master... As for the risotto known as salto, it is enjoyed under a fine shower of liquorice, a recurring feature of Milanese cuisine. Back to Trussardi, in Piazza della Scala. The whole place is dedicated to this brand, which was born in Bergamo in 1911. The flagship shop is on the ground floor. There's also the café, open for lunch and dinner, but which offers an incredible concept: fast and (very) good food for La Scala spectators during the interval! But upstairs, time passes in a different way... In a décor of white, black and gold, you slip into a parallel world where the classics of Italian gastronomy are transfigured.

Risotti obviously have a place in the imagination of young chef Roberto Conti, who composes them with very subtle notes of fruit, flowers, ancient vegetables and marine flavours. His reinterpretation of milanese the meat and the osso bucco come together in a divine marriage in which the flavour of the meat and the osso bucco are in perfect harmony. gremoladaA blend of herbs and citrus fruits adds the perfect flavour. Risotto is everywhere in Milan. At Bagutta, another institution that has given its name to a literary prize, and on the menu at Dolce & Gabbana's Martini Bistrot. Basically, you could make risotto every day of the year if you wanted to. Enough to scare the life out of any orthodox dietician.