A vase-shaped tower, another pointed, a third twisted... This is the landscape that appears on the horizon as the taxi approaches Doha's West Bay, conquered by the vertical. Barely ten years ago, it was still flat, it seems. Clearly, no time has been wasted; everything smells new and daring. Clearly, the end of the month is not too difficult and Doha has been able to afford a real luxury: inviting the big names in international architecture to give free rein to their wild imagination. The luxury of attracting everything that glitters to the bay, from the stars of the big hotels to the stoles of the great fashion designers. Or to build a huge "cultural village" right next to the office towers. And finally, to imagine that a state-confetti lost in the Persian Gulf, no bigger than a French department, was capable of hosting a football World Cup in 2022.
This latest challenge outlines the future of Doha: in 10 years' time, new stadiums will be built behind West Bay, as well as 80,000 hotel rooms, a hundred or so underground stations, two tramway lines, a new port, motorways and even a city of over 200,000 inhabitants. One thing is certain: tomorrow, the landscape will never be the same. That's what makes this business district on the edge of the desert so fascinating.
Identity card
Time difference: +2 h in winter; +1 h in summer.
Currency: Qatar rial (QR).
1 euro = 4.9 QR (Nov. 2013).
Area code: +974.
How to get there
Qatar Airways offers three daily flights between Paris and Doha. Crowned for the quality of its business class by Skytrax in 2013, the airline promises "five-star luxury in the sky" to its business passengers. At Doha International Airport, they can also enjoy the many amenities of the Premium terminal, which is entirely dedicated to First and Business travellers. After numerous postponements, the new airport, Hamad International Airport, is due to open in early 2014.
Tel.: 01 70 95 05 80
Internet: www.qatarairways.com
AIR FRANCE-KLM operates five weekly flights from Paris to Doha, via Amsterdam. Flights to the emirate are operated by the Dutch airline on a code-share basis with Air France, and are operated at night on three-class Airbus A330-200s, including one Economy Comfort.
Tel.: 0820 820 820
Internet: www.airfrance.fr
Luxury hotels
St Regis Doha
Located between the buildings of West Bay and the cultural village of Katara, near the diplomatic quarter, this 336-room hotel with sea views - including 70 suites - puts the St Regis signature on the shores of the Persian Gulf. 4,000 m2 of meeting space, 22 spa treatment rooms, a private beach and an Olympic-size swimming pool surrounded by cabanas: the volumes are quite impressive. Among the ten restaurants and bars available, Gordon Ramsay plays the starring role, assisted by Astor Grill (steak house) and Hakkasan (Cantonese cuisine). Music lovers beware: in October 2012, New York's famous Jazz at Lincoln Center opened a branch at the St Regis, where you can enjoy live performances by artists from all over the world six days a week. Other events include Jammin on the Beach reggae nights, held mid-week when the beach is not sweltering.
Al Gassar Resort. Doha West Bay.
Tel: +974 44460000
Email : doha.butler@stregis.com
Internet: www.stregisdoha.com
Four seasons Hotel Doha
From the cosy Cigar Lounge to the luminous Churrasco on the Beach, the Four Seasons is a particularly enviable place to stay, just a stone's throw from the corniche and the tall office blocks of West Bay. 232 rooms, including 57 suites, and among its facilities a three-level swimming pool on the beachfront.
The Corniche
Phone: +974 4494 8888
Internet: www.fourseasons.com/doha
Hotel Hipster
W Doha
An urban hotel in the heart of West Bay, the W is the place to be if you want to feel the pulse of the 'new Doha', whether in the Bliss Spa, around the changing lights of the Wet Pool or at trendy parties in the Wahm and Crystal lounge bars. As for the rooms, there is a choice of 442 options divided into six categories with promising titles: from the Spectacular Room to the Extreme Wow Suite, with its 300 m2 and hexagonal bathtub.
West Bay
Phone: +974 4453 5000
Email : info.wdoha@whotels.com
Internet: www.whoteldoha.com
Waterfront hotels
Mövenpick Tower & Suites Doha
Amidst the office blocks of West Bay, this five-star hotel stands out for the quality of its wellness centre perched on the 26th floor, with the views that go with it. An important detail for long stays: kitchenettes in all 350 rooms and suites.
West Bay
Phone: +974 4496 6600
Email : tower.doha@moevenpick.com
Internet: www.moevenpick-hotels.com
Hilton Doha
The highlights of this 309-room Hilton inaugurated in 2012 include a private beach, entertainment around the pool, its vast Eforea spa and six restaurants and bars. There's something for everyone, with Mediterranean cuisine at La Sahtaine and Polynesian cuisine at Trader Vic's or snacks and cocktails at Zawaya... Residents of the Executive Rooms are privileged, with a balcony overlooking the Persian Gulf and access to an Executive lounge with food all day long.
Diplomatic District Street West Bay
Tel.: +974 4 4233333
Email : doha.reservations@hilton.com
Internet: www.hilton.com
Sheraton Doha resort & convention hotel
Doha's 'historic' hotel remains one of its main focal points, with 371 rooms and suites overlooking a lobby with impressive views. The hotel offers no fewer than ten restaurant and bar options, including the renowned Al Shaheen, offering some of the best Lebanese cuisine and one of the best views in the city.
Al Corniche Street
Tel.: +974 4485 4444
Email : sheraton.doha@sheraton.com
Internet: www.sheratondoha.com
Other top hotels in West Bay
InterContinental Doha the City
Phone: +974 40 158888
Email : icdohatc.info@ihg.com
Internet: www.ihg.com
Millenium Hotel Doha
Jawaan Street, Al Sadd
Tel: +974 4 424 7777
Email : reservations@mill-doha.com
Internet: www.milleniumhotels.com
Renaissance Doha City Center
West Bay City Center, Al Wahda Street
Phone: +974 4419 5000
Internet: www.renaissancedoha.com
Grand Hyatt Doha
West Bay Lagoon
Phone: + 974 4448 1234
Email : doha.grand@hyatt.com
Internet: www.doha.grand.hyatt.com
Ritz-Carlton Doha West Bay Lagoon
Phone: +974 4484 8000
Email : dohrz.leads@ritzcarlton.com
Internet: www.ritzcarlton.com
Hotel residences
Kempinski Residences & Suites
"Everything you need to succeed from day one": the promise anticipates the expectations of the long-term business traveller and is expressed in 370 suites and villas with one to three bedrooms, crowned at the top by a handful of duplex and triplex "sky villas". There are also meeting rooms, a fitness centre, a host of bars and restaurants and an army of 24-hour services (concierge, maintenance, etc.).
West Bay
Phone: +974 4405 3333
Email: reservations.doha@kempinski.com Internet: www.kempinski.com
Ascott Doha
Recently opened on Diplomatic Street, very close to the City Center mall, this hotel residence offers 229 options in one, two or three rooms and all the facilities that go with it: concierge, fitness, WiFi, business centre, lounge...
Diplomatic Area
Phone: +974 4497 1234
Email : enquiry.doha@the-ascott.com
Internet: www.the-ascott.com
Other long-stay addresses
Marriott Executive Apartments Doha City Center
West Bay City Center. Al Wahda Street
Tel.: +974 4419 6000
Internet: www.marriottexecutiveapartmentsdoha.com
Somerset West Bay Doha
Diplomatic Area
Tel.: +974 4420 3333
Email : enquiry.doha@the-ascott.com
Internet: www.somerset.com
Frasers Suites Doha
48675 Al Meena Street, Corniche Road.
Tel.: +974 442 43444
Email : sales.doha@frasershospitality.com
Internet: doha.frasershospitality.com
The Sheraton, opened in 1979, is the oldest business hotel in Doha.
Restaurants
Many of the city's top restaurants are to be found in hotels: Gordon Ramsay and Astor Grill (St Regis), Nusantao and Il Teatro (Four Seasons), Market by Jean-Georges and Spice Market (W Doha), Fish Market and Coral (InterContinental Doha), Aroma (Kempinski). But the desert doesn't begin at the gates of the palaces. The rest of the city has several interesting alternatives.
Al Mourjan
Opened in 2008 in the curve of the corniche, this great Lebanese cuisine restaurant offers, without doubt, the best view of the West Bay skyline.
Balhambar building, Corniche
Tel.: +974 483 4423
Internet: www.almourjanrest.com
The Anvil rooms
Cozy, woody, perched, The Anvils Rooms is the palace of the charcoal grill. The must-try of all the grills on offer is the AAco Master Kobe beef entrecôte, priced at $130 a slice.
28th floor, Tornado Tower
Tel.: +974 4499 0685
Email : reservations@theanvilrooms.qa
Internet: www.theanvilrooms.qa
L'wzaar seafood market
In the heart of the Katara cultural village, a seafood restaurant resembling an exquisitely decorated fish market.
Bldg. 27. Katara Cultural Village
Tel.: +974 4408 0722
Email : info@lwzaar.com
Internet: www.lwzaar.com
Saffron Lounge
Also located at Katara, 'the' Indian restaurant in town, overseen by chef Vineet Bhatia.
Bldg. 26. Katara Cultural Village
Phone: +974 4408 0808
Email : reservations@saffronlounge.net
Internet: www.saffronlounge.net
Nightlife
Here again, the hotels lay down the law. There's no need to look outside their walls for a bar or other drinking establishment: there aren't any. This exclusivity explains why the four- and five-star hotels continue to set the pace for the social life of expatriates and regular business travellers alike after dark. The calendar of festivities: Pub Quizz on Monday at the Renaissance, 90's party on Tuesday at the Marriott, White party at the W, Ladie's night at the InterContinental or Sangria Night at the Ritz-Carlton on Wednesday and so on until Sunday and the Cigar sunday night at the Kempinski... For an up-to-date programme, Time Out Doha is available just about everywhere (timeoutdoha.com).
Services
Taxis
Heat, long distances, embryonic public transport: the car is still the best way to get around the city. Fortunately, taxis are relatively cheap in Doha. The problem is that they are a rare commodity once you leave the heart of West Bay. It's not easy, if not impossible, to catch one on the fly; you're better off relying on the taxi stands that can be found in front of shopping centres (Villagio, City Center, etc.). As well as "ordinary" taxis, "limousines" are available on call. They are twice as expensive as a street taxi, but offer the assurance of a vehicle about twenty minutes after the call.
Some numbers :
Al Watan Limousine: +974 4447 7999
City Limousine: +974 4444 2111
Afsal Limousine: +974 5505 1864
Carwa Taxi: +974 4458 8888
Qatar Taxi: +974 7744 0531
Chauffeur-driven cars
Doha transportation, tel: +974 5563 0927, www.dohatransportation.com
Fox transport, tel: +974 446 22 777, www.foxtransport.net
CABz transport, tel: + 974 44410 383, www.cabz.co
Prestige cars, tel: +974 442 09 130, www.prestigecarsco.com
Doha West Bay business centres
Al Fardan Office Tower (8th, 9th and 14th floors)
Phone: +974 4410 1555
Internet: www.regus.com
Global Business Centre
Al Hitmi Village Building (Clock Roundabout, Corniche Area)
Tel: +974 44023000
Internet: www.gbc.com.qa
Telephony
Ooredoo and Vodafone offer SIM cards, available from most kiosks and shopping centres.
Tips
In restaurants, leave around 10% of the bill. The same applies to taxis.
Shopping
Lagoona Mall, Landmark Mall, Ezdan Mall, Gate Mall, Royal Plaza: air-conditioned shopping centres have invaded Doha. In this ever-growing shopping basket, two stars stand out: Villagio, built on the theme of Venice, and City Center, with over 250 shops in the very heart of West Bay.
Spas
There are already more than 25 spas in Doha. The lion's share of the competition is clearly hotel-based: Remède spa at the St Regis, Bay View 26 at the Mövenpick, Bliss spa at the W, eforea at the Hilton, Pure spa at the Millenium... But there are also a large number of offerings outside hotels, including the Guerlain Alfardan spa in the Al Fardan Towers, and the B/attitude spa and its Vega Lounge in the Beverly Hills Tower.
