Business - The beautiful ways of the Rising Sun

To what extent can a Western business traveller be expected to conform to Japanese etiquette? This is a difficult question to answer, as it is virtually impossible to follow Japanese etiquette in its entirety. While lapses are forgiven, making an effort to apply a few basic rules will always be much appreciated. "The Japanese are tolerant people. They understand that you don't know everything"says Sahé Cibot, a specialist in Franco-Japanese relations. Born in France to a French father and Japanese mother, she was able to navigate between the two cultures from an early age. "It's good to know a few words like 'hajimemashite', which means 'delighted', or 'arigatô-gozaimasu', which means 'thank you' in Japanese. Of course, speaking fluently will impress your interlocutors."she notes.

Lost in translation

However, in most cases, the help of an interpreter is a good thing, as he or she will use diplomacy to smooth out the rough edges of a conversation and mitigate the moods and irritations of both sides. "Sometimes, contracts are not signed because of a misunderstanding linked to a cultural difference, and not to the terms of the contract itself", assures Sahé Cibot. As far as good manners are concerned, it is advisable to invite a Japanese guest to a French or European restaurant, as it is important not only to share culture, but also to master a situation.

This is part of the negotiation process which, in Japan, takes place in two stages. First of all, in a very formal way, on company premises, where we only talk about business, and then in a more relaxed context, to get to know each other and discuss personal projects that sometimes come under the heading of private life. In the past, we used to meet in onsen, the traditional baths, but this implied a separation between men and women. Nowadays, it's more common to go to a restaurant or meet for a drink. In fact, it is so deeply rooted in the culture that an Anglo-Japanese term has been coined to describe it: "nomunication". In Japanese, 'Nominasu' means to drink, so this is the art of communicating by drinking... Be careful, however, to sip your sake in moderation: in Japan, the guest's glass is filled non-stop...

"Another thing to know: the Japanese love drawings that summarise an idea."says Sahé Cibot. So when you're giving a presentation, it's a good idea to have diagrams ready. But it's also a good idea not to come empty-handed. The best thing to do is to bring a small gift, such as chocolates or cakes wrapped in pretty boxes, which will evoke the image of France, so dear to the hearts of the Japanese.

Especially no jokes

Among the things to avoid, humour is most often cited. Puns run the risk of falling flat or being misinterpreted. Many Westerners, to lighten the mood, start a presentation by telling an anecdote, or even a joke. This is frowned upon in Japan, where there is a clear distinction between work and relaxation outside the company. So formal situations should always remain formal.

Another pitfall, albeit less serious, is extending the hand instead of bowing. Similarly, failing to escort someone to the lift if they are visiting is rude, as is forgetting to bring your business cards or rummaging through your bag to pull out a half-slashed one. It's a good idea to invest in an elegant card holder that you can keep in your hand when you're being introduced. The last sensitive issue is that of first names. While it is customary in France, by mimicry with the United States, to call employees by their first name, this familiarity should be avoided here. Finally, Emmanuel Neveu, clarinettist with the Tokyo Symphony for twelve years, insists on punctuality, even within an orchestra! "Twice I was late when I first started, because I didn't have a good grasp of the public transport system... I could see that it didn't work at all, and in fact the rehearsals had started without me..."he recalls. As for the rest, this perfectly bilingual Frenchman believes that his adopted country is a great place to live. "The Japanese like to go out after work, but they're very busy people who don't appreciate being wasted.". His final recommendation: know how to assert yourself while remaining respectful and discreet. A tightrope walker's art...

In Japan, sushi is an art form

You'd think that finding sushi in Tokyo would be child's play. And yet... This dish is only intended for special occasions: birthdays, professional promotions, celebrations of all kinds. Which is actually quite rare. So if you want to make a reservation at one of the top sushi chefs, such as Jiro, revered by the great French chefs, or even at the young Rinda, one of the latest to put Tokyo on the map, you have to make a reservation in advance. Otherwise, the restaurants of the big hotels may be a good alternative. But there are a few basic rules to be observed, such as not taking offence - you risk losing face and being frowned upon - if your ever-present dab of wasabi with a dollop of soy sauce doesn't show up at the table. Daijiro Sakamoto, head sushi chef at the Kazahana restaurant in Tokyo's Conrad Hotel, explains: "It's a good idea to make sure that the wasabi is always there.the wasabi is only placed by the chef, under the fish, in a thin layer that is barely visible, but which adds a lot of flavour". So adding more and dipping it in the sauce is seen as a lack of elegance, not to say an insult to the artist, who is being told that his fish has been poorly chosen.

And therein lies the other rule you must never break: you leave it up to the chef to choose his assortment, based on the finds he has made that very day at the famous Tsukiji Fish Market. Of course, you can take the liberty of refusing fugu, the poisonous fish that the Japanese love, but which must be prepared with extreme precision so as not to be lethal. On a more serious note, don't forget that salmon is not a fish from the seas of Japan... Leaving a restaurant because you don't find your usual California Roll would be a very rude thing to do, even though many Westerners do it regularly. The only whim that is accepted is to ask for as much pickled ginger as you like. But only in a low voice... Because tasting sushi is an art, practised in religious silence and with respect for the enjoyment of other diners.

KAZAHANA : conradhotels3.hilton.com - SUSHI JIRO: www.sushi-jiro.jp - SUSHI RINDA: www.rinda-tokyo.com