Luang Prabang... The name sounds exotic, like the title of an old OSS 117. The name conjures up images of Hubert Bonisseur de la Bath in trouble with drug traffickers in this region close to the Golden Triangle... But no! Located 210km north of the Laotian capital Vientiane, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is not a nest of spies, just the country's number one tourist destination. People come here to savour the gentle way of life in the shade of palm, banana and banyan trees, to immerse themselves in a remarkable architectural and cultural heritage and to enjoy the intense religious activity. There are 34 Buddhist monasteries in the old town, and swarms of monks roam the streets, inviting you to meditate and reflect... It's like being on another planet.
Exceptional experience
The town is beginning to attract a number of groups looking for a timeless break. "These are mainly management committees, says John Dopéré, manager of La résidence Phou Vao (part of the Belmond Group, formerly known as Orient-Express), one of the city's few upmarket establishments. They are already familiar with Asia and are looking for a slightly exceptional experience, as it is not a cheap destination, particularly due to the lack of direct flights."In fact, apart from domestic flights, the city is only served from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. The creation of new routes is eagerly awaited by the tourism industry.
For the time being, Luang Prabang is enjoying a peaceful existence, with fewer than 300,000 visitors a year. Protected by its Unesco label, which regulates car traffic (buses are excluded), prohibits the proliferation of advertising hoardings and bans all inappropriate construction, it retains a unity that few cities in South-East Asia can boast. The site, which forms a peninsula surrounded by mountains at the confluence of the Nam Khan River and the Mekong, has been inhabited since the dawn of time - 8,000 BC according to archaeologists. From the 14th to the 16th century, Luang Prabang rose to become the royal capital of Lang Xang - the "kingdom of a million elephants" - the first Lao state. This was a period of union and prosperity in a country that was constantly being coveted by its neighbours. The landmark buildings of its religious architecture date from this period. "You can reach them on foot or by bike, which obviously adds to the charm of discovering the historic centre.The Luangsay Residence provides its guests with bicycles," says Rodolphe Gay, hotel manager at The Luangsay Residence.
Built in 1559 at the tip of the peninsula, the venerable Vat Xieng Thong, the "Monastery of the Golden City", is one of the oldest temples and certainly one of the best preserved, illustrating the architectural quality of religious buildings. The elegance of its roof, made up of three sequences of superimposed sections, the delicacy of the ornamentation and the richness of the painted and sculpted iconography bear witness to the excellence of the craftsmen. With the grace conferred by the patina of time, the result is a singular magic, without glitz or glamour.
Each micro-neighbourhood has its own monastery which, in addition to the simThe main building, dedicated to meditation, is made up of several buildings: chapels, stupas, monks' dwellings, etc. As well as being a place of worship, they form a living space where monks, novices and locals come to seek advice on a particular question. "The Theravada Buddhism practised here traditionally cultivates the values of openness and welcome. The monasteries have no doors, so anyone can walk through them, points out a historian specialising in local culture. They were also places of learning. 90 % of the novices are aged between 11 and 18 and come from peasant families, the poorest class. The monastery thus represents the only opportunity for free access to education. In this sense, the novitiate is a stage in life. Only a few will become monks. The others will return to the village or find work in the city, but in all cases they will be respected because they are educated. A privilege in this impoverished country where owning a book is already a luxury. Just think, there are only six bookshops in Laos..."
The religious fervour of Luang Prabang can be felt every day in the early hours of the morning. It's 6am when monks and novices silently walk barefoot through the streets of the city for the tak bat, the collection of offerings. Unshod and kneeling at the kerbs, the inhabitants wait for the procession to give each of them a handful of hot rice, some of which will then be redistributed to the most disadvantaged children. The image of the silent procession of saffron dresses in the dawn light is impressive. Unfortunately, it is often marred by the indelicacy of tourists who can't resist taking selfies or close-up photos of the monks. The side streets are therefore preferable to the main thoroughfare, which is disrupted by the crackle of flashbulbs worthy of the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival. "Tourism is undeniably a social lift for the population, says a long-standing expatriate. It also helps to finance the monasteries, which depend exclusively on donations. But it does have its drawbacks... Despite the recommendations for good practice posted all over the place, discretion leaves much to be desired."Love, compassion and respect: these fundamental values of Buddhism have yet to enlighten the behaviour of some visitors. Perhaps they should attend the introductory meditation sessions organised by some monasteries for foreigners, a possibility that is also offered to incentive groups...
Yesterday's fragrance and today's charm
The Luang Prabang peninsula is the perfect place to take a stroll in a languid atmosphere, and offers some striking contrasts. The disorientation of a market that, between fruit, vegetables and aromatic herbs, offers insects, unidentified worms and larvae, bats, squirrels, snakes... A café on the corner of the street that seems familiar, with its second-hand furniture, its tables and chairs mismatched, and that serves coffee-croissants accompanied by the latest edition of Le Monde. The city also boasts a mix of pre-colonial wooden houses on stilts, masonry buildings dating from the French protectorate (1893-1946) and charming hybrids inspired by both styles. The silhouette of the villa housing the Institut Français is reminiscent of a provincial house, but its staircase is adorned with dragons and its roof crowned with fleurons, like a temple. It was the childhood home of Pierre Desproges, whose father was headmaster of the Luang Prabang primary school. The more opulent Villa Aman, built in 1923 for a member of the royal family, is set in a vast garden suitable for gala evenings.
"Luang Prabang is nestled in a green setting, transfer times are negligible and most outdoor activities are less than 30 minutes from the centre.It's a great way to get away from it all," says Pablo Barruti, manager of the Hôtel de la Paix, which has just joined the Sofitel chain. Trekking, kayaking, mountain biking and motorcycling are all on offer. In what was once the kingdom of a million elephants, the pachyderm rides, which are very popular with groups, are often complemented by awareness-raising campaigns to protect the species. There are barely a thousand wild elephants left in Laos, as logging has steadily reduced a natural territory made dangerous by poaching. "In this context, ecotourism protects the elephants by enabling them to 'earn a living' while sparing them the very hard work of logging.The Elephant Village is a very special place," explains Sysouphan Onsomboun, head of the Elephant Village. This camp, located high above the Mekong, 15 km south-east of the city, has 300 hectares of primary forest under secure cover and organises half-day to two-day treks with the pachyderms for small groups of up to 25 participants.
At weekends, a number of waterfalls delight the Luang-Prabangese, starting with the breathtaking Kuang Si Falls. The water plummets 60 metres, creating a welcome misting effect. The bubbling pools of turquoise water are open to bathers and often look like a crowded public swimming pool. Everyone waits their turn to jump into the water from a vine or banyan branch, but you only have to take the forest path that climbs steeply to the top to find peace and quiet. The site is also used to organise a lunch or cooking class, a popular activity in Luang Prabang, which boasts some excellent restaurants. For example, the renowned Tamarind teaches the secret of laap - literally happiness - the national dish. It consists of grilled minced meat seasoned with lime, chilli and shallots, and topped with a fish sauce. Accompanied by a mixture of finely chopped chives, coriander and mint leaves, this fresh and tasty dish is a must for family meals and weddings, as it is supposed to bring good luck to those who eat it.
The serenity of the Mekong
Although Laos has no access to the sea, it is bordered by the Mekong, "the mother of all waters". The Mekong is a rather quiet river, frequented by fishermen's boats and taxi boats serving the villages, but it also offers many opportunities for groups, such as a visit to the Pak Ou caves. This legendary temple, to be visited early in the morning before the crowds, is carved into the cliff and has been frequented since the 16th century. "The river is the perfect way to get out of the city without disturbing the serenity of the surroundings.says Antoine Lobry, manager of the Hotel Victoria. In high season, the water level is low. The beaches are deserted, making them ideal for a lunch or cocktail party.." Rodolphe Gay agrees: "It's the best way to explore the surrounding area, especially as the roads leave much to be desired. Mékong Cruises has three private boats, each with a capacity of 40 people, which complement our hotel offer by organising day trips as well as cruises including an overnight stay in a lodge."
Silent idleness
The three-hour boat ride to Kamu Lodge gives groups a chance to contemplate the Mekong: the red ochre of the river, the green of the forest speckled with a multitude of shades, clouds clinging to cliff tops, a ray of sunlight on frangipani bushes, a bush ploughing a rice field on the bank... The images evoke a Durassian atmosphere. The lodge, which can be reserved for up to 40 people, is made up of 20 tents set between the forest and the rice paddies. "We are located on the outskirts of a village belonging to the Kamu ethnic group, with whom we have established a partnership by creating jobs and a development fund.It's a real pleasure to be here", explains Olivier Trafal, who runs the camp. As a result, some of the villagers are responsible for the upkeep of the site, run the catering - admittedly, the service is not that of a palace, but it is carried out with heart - and take part in the entertainment by introducing visitors to traditional activities. Rice planting and cultivation, hawk fishing, gold panning, crossbow shooting, trekking to identify medicinal plants: there's no shortage of things to do in this ecolodge with its friendly atmosphere. It is also magnificently suited to the mother of all virtues, idleness: strolling through an authentic village without being pestered to buy this or that souvenir, wandering along the river, hanging out at the open-air bar long after the sun has set, listening to the silence...
Although Thai Airways operates the Luang Prabang-Bangkok route, the return journey to France can include a diversion via Ventiane. While the city lacks the charm of Bangkok, Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, it does boast some pretty temples, notably the Pha That Luang, a monumental golden stupa and symbol of the country, and the Patuxai, a strange concrete triumphal arch from the 1960s that offers a 360° view of the city. Here and there, you can discover some of Ventiane's attractions, such as the Mekong riverbed, colonised by a handful of farmers growing cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage and green beans. In the dry season, you can walk around on foot. Then there are the slightly ramshackle institutions that provide the expected exoticism. Such is the case of Talat Khua Din, the morning market. This labyrinth of narrow gutters distributes an aggregate of ramshackle constructions crammed with everything that can be sold, including an incredible non-refrigerated butchery section.
The saleswomen, perched on a small stool set right next to the stall, work barefoot in the offal. A special mention goes to the "national library", not a quartet of towers as in Paris, but a charming colonial building the size of a town hall in the Ariège region. The sign is decrepit and the place clearly not very busy, but it does have a very lively pétanque court. People shoot and point with precision; the losing team pays for its round, a vestige of the French protectorate in Laos.
