When we talk about Bombay - or Mumbai, its official name since 1995 - the outside world often only remembers the cliché of Bollywood, the glittering centre of an Indian film industry that remains the world's leading, with almost 3,000 films produced every year. But entertainment is not the only industry in a city that is home to most of the country's economic giants. This is true in industry, where the head offices of Vedanta Resources, Reliance Industries, the Aditya Birla Group and, of course, the sprawling Tata Group are based. The same is true of finance, with some of the major players in the sector, such as the State Bank of India and ICICI Bank, behind institutions like the stock exchange and the central bank.
The driving force behind an Indian economy that is growing at a rate of 7 to 10 % a year, Bombay is constantly changing and evolving, and the old textile mills are rapidly giving way to aerospace design offices, NTIC companies and pharmaceutical laboratories, as well as upmarket restaurants, bars and shopping centres.
An evolution leading to a map "business from south to north, from the traditional business district of Nariman Point to the brand new Bandra Kurla Complex. Our address book aims to reflect this diversity, distinguishing between addresses in the areas to the south (Nariman Point, Marine Drive, Colaba, etc.) and north (Worli, Bandra, Juhu, Santa Cruz, etc.) of the city.
How to get there
Air France offers a daily direct flight between Paris and Bombay.
Information: 3654 or www.airfrance.fr
From France, Jet Airways offers indirect flights to Bombay, via London from Paris - with onward connections provided by Air France - and via Brussels from Lyon, Marseille and Toulouse, with onward connections provided by Brussels Airlines. Information and bookings: www.jetairways.com or 01 49 52 41 15.
Hotels
North Mumbai
Four Seasons Mumbai - The Four Seasons is undeniably the most stylish hotel in the north of the city. Located in the Worli business district, the hotel offers a wide choice of rooms, topped off by magnificent views from the four finest suites overlooking the city, the sea and the Mahalaxmi racecourse. The service is exceptional, and the staff know the difference between professionalism and obsequiousness. Of particular note: a swimming pool and dining areas that are both stylish and welcoming, including San Qi, the pan-Asian restaurant. The other big star of the Four Seasons is Aer, the panoramic bar-restaurant on the 34th floor.
114 Dr. E. Moses Road (Worli)
Tel. : + 91 22 2481-8000
Internet : www.fourseasons.com
Grand Hyatt Mumbai - 547 rooms and suites, 147 long-stay flats, two outdoor swimming pools and eight dining areas: a mind-boggling volume for this major business hotel that is close, both geographically and aesthetically, to the new Bandra Kurla Complex district. The whole complex is dotted with contemporary works of art, some of which are disconcerting.
Off Western Express Highway, Santacruz (East)
Tel. : + 91 22 6676 1234
Internet : www.mumbai.grand.hyatt.com
Novotel Mumbai Juhu beach - Among the procession of establishments at the back of Juhu Beach, the Novotel stands out, particularly for the quality of its outdoor spaces, with a fine collection of bars and restaurants overlooking the sea and the pool.
Balraj Sahani Marg (Juhu Beach)
Tel. : + 91 22 6693 4444
Internet : www.novotel.com
South Mumbai
The Taj Mahal place & tower - In Bombay's hotel catalogue, the Taj Mahal Palace holds a special place. It's not just another hotel; it's an icon, a legend, the natural stopping-off point for every crowned head or 'ordinary' personality visiting India's business capital. The "Grande Dame of Appollo Bunder of course suffered a major setback with the terrorist attacks of November 2008, of which it was the most spectacular target. But since last August and the reopening of the Palace wing, everything has returned to the way it was. And for the better, since the work has enabled the décor of the rooms and suites to be redefined under the guidance of a team of international designers. The hotel has returned to its "destination in itself which you can reach in the hotel's Jaguar or Bentley, the ultimate in luxury with its personal butler and views of the Gateway to India. The hotel is home to some of the city's most exquisite restaurants, including Masala Kraft and Wasabi by Morimoto.
Apollo Bunder
Tel. : + 91 22 6665 3366
Internet : www.tajhotels.com
The Oberoi - A victim, like the Taj Mahal Palace, of the November 2008 attacks, the Oberoi in Bombay has since benefited from a total renovation, with enlarged rooms, the installation of wooden floors instead of carpets, and a lobby with a bird's eye view entirely dressed in white. There has also been a major revolution in the restaurant offering, including the excellent Ziya, the new star of Indian gastronomy led by Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia.
Nariman Point
Tel. : + 91 22 6632 5757
Internet : www.oberoihotels.com
Trident Nariman point - Adjacent to the Oberoi, a large 541-room business hotel with several types of suites and Trident Club rooms, many of which overlook the sea and Marine Drive. The venue is particularly popular for its trendy Opium Den bar, pan-Asian restaurant India Jones and the bright spaces of its informal Frangipani restaurant.
Nariman Point
Tel. : + 91 22 6632 4343
Internet : www.tridenthotels.com
Vivanta president Mumbai by Taj - By switching to the Vivanta label, the Taj President underlines its true vocation: a business hotel, yes, but one that belongs to the new generation. With everything you need for the business traveller, while offering an extensive range of facilities for the off-duty traveller. Particularly noteworthy are the Jiva spa, the spectacular Wink bar and the Thai Pavilion, one of the city's most popular Thai restaurants.
90 Cuffe Parade
Tel. : + 91 22 6665 0808
Internet : www.vivantabytaj.com
Intercontinental Marine Drive - Mumbai - Spread over 8 floors, this Marine Drive establishment offers beautiful views of the Arabian Sea, with special mention for guests on the Executive Club floor. Two public areas further enhance the hotel's reputation: the Koh by Ian Kittichai Thai restaurant and the rooftop Dome Bar, popular with Bollywood stars and photographers alike.
135 Marine Drive
Tel. : + 91 22 3987 9999
Internet : www.intercontinental.com
Restaurants
North Mumbai
Olive bar & kitchen - The recipe for success of this major meeting place for Bombay's beautiful people: a Mediterranean menu and a décor with a hint of the Cyclades. A second version is on offer on the outskirts of the Mahalaxmi racecourse.
14 Union Park (Khar)
Tel. : + 91 22 260 58228
Internet : www.olivebarandkitchen.com
Amateur Riders Club, Mahalaxmi Race Course, Khadye Marg
Tel. : + 91 22 40859595
Aurus - The cuisine is as international as the atmosphere, with the added bonus of a unique view of the setting sun on Juhu Beach.
Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road (Santacruz)
Tel. : + 91 22 67106666
Two One Two - A bright, modern place dedicated to Mediterranean cuisine with - the chef insists - "one of the only real wood-fired ovens in the city". Pizzas, then, but also pasta and other Italian delights.
12-A Hornby Vellard Estate, Lotus Cinema building (Worli)
Tel. : + 91 22 2490 1994
Out of the Blue - A very popular and wildly colourful restaurant. Pasta, pizza, grilled dishes and a large al fresco area taken over by Bandra's golden youth.
14 Union Park, Khar
Tel. : + 91 26 00 3000
Internet : www.outoftheblue.in
Bungalow 9 - A newcomer to Bandra in the 'multi-cuisine' genre, with lively music inside and rather flattering outdoor spaces.
9 St. John Baptist Road (Bandra)
Tel. : + 91 22 6117 9999
Internet : www.bungalow9.in
South Mumbai
Khyber at Fort - With its opulent décor, subdued lighting, intimate niches, a few paintings by traditional artists and, above all, excellent Mughlai cuisine, Khyber is a must when it comes to Indian cuisine, for groups and individuals alike.
145 Mahatma Gandhi Road
Tel. : + 91 4039 6666
Internet : www.khyberrestaurant.com
Trishna - An institution that has been established in Bombay for some thirty years. In fact, it's a household name, since there's also a branch in London. The decor is sober and the cuisine is distinguished by the art of using seafood.
Sai Baba Marg (Kala Ghoda)
Tel. : + 91 2261 4991
Internet : www.trishna.co.in
Indigo - Most of the visiting international stars have come to pay tribute to this establishment, opened by chef Rahul Akerkar, during their stay. For the quality of his creations, but also for the setting. Special mention for the upstairs terrace.
4 Mandlik Road (Colaba)
Tel. : + 91 22 6636 8980
Internet foodindigo.com
Services
Business centres
Regus (www.regus.com) offers around ten workspaces in Mumbai, with a strong concentration in the new Bandra Kurla Complex business district.
DBS Office Business Centers - Raheja Chambers 213, Free Press Journal Marg (Nariman Point)
Tel. : + 91 22 4050 9200
Internet : www.dbsindia.com
Apeejay business centre - 3 Dinshaw Vachha Road (Churchgate)
Phone: + 91 22 2202 9966
Internet: www.abcvirtual.net
Car hire with driver/taxi
The possibilities are endless, so just ask the hotel concierge. Expect to pay between 1,600 and 2,000 rupees (€26 to €33) per day.
Royal limousines - Tel: + 91 2228081743
City Cool Cab – www.citycoolcab.in or + 91 22 22 16 44 66
Meru Cabs – www.merucabs.com or + 91 22 44 22 44 22
For transfers from the airport to the city centre, use the pre-paid taxi counter located just before the exit on the "arrivals" level. Expect to pay around 400 rupees (6.5 euros) for the transfer.
Appart'hotels
Taj Wellington Mews luxury residences - 33 Nathalal Perekh Marg (Colaba)
Tel. : + 91 22 6656 9494
Internet : www.tajhotels.com
Grand residency - 24th Road off Turner Road (Bandra)
Tel. : + 91 22 67106000
Internet : www.grandresidency.com
Oakwood premier Mumbai - 29/1 JR Mhatre Road (Juhu)
Tel. : + 91-22 6623 8888
Internet : www.oakwood.com
Seven - 2 locations in Bandra and Worli
Tel. : + 91- 92232 97777
Internet : www.sevenservicedapartments.com
Aura executive homes - 4 locations in Bandra, Worli, Juhu and Powai
Tel. : + 91 22 40160000
Internet : www.auraexecutivehomes.com
Shopping
With the growth in purchasing power, multi-storey shopping centres are springing up all over Bombay's upmarket districts. The most spectacular to date is the Phoenix Mills and its Palladium. But when it comes to local souvenirs, it's probably best to look elsewhere. For kurtas, duppatas, churidars and other colourful cottons used as tablecloths, curtains or bed covers, the rallying point is Fabindia (www.fabindia.com), which has no fewer than fourteen outlets in Bombay, the most famous of which is the large boutique in Khala Godalocated at 137 M. G. Road. On the high-end decor front, there are the two addresses of Good Earth (Raghuvanshi Mills in the North, 2 Reay House in the South). Bombay has some even more exclusive and confidential spaces, such as Sabyasachi (52 dr. V. b. Gandhi Marg), a small shop fitted out with exquisite taste, all lamps and antique clocks, where you can find some fabrics for Indian evenings at over 2000 euros a piece.
Bars
Of course, there are the hotel bars, with theAer (Four Seasons) and the Dome (InterContinental) for lovers of the great outdoors, the Water Bar (Oberoi), Harbour bar (Taj Mahal Palace) and Wink (Vivanta President) for lovers of a refined ambience. The hotels also provide everything you need in the way of nightclubs, the latest sensation being created by the Sea Princess hotel with its Trilogy. But nightlife is not confined to the hotels. Visit Hard Rock Café At the Bombay Dyeing Mills Coumpound (Worli), you can of course admire Cindy Lauper's stage outfits, but there's even more to discover. Two examples: the Blue Froga designer music venue housed in a former Lower Parel warehouse, and theEscobarIn a setting of noble woods, tucked away on the 4th floor of an unremarkable shopping centre.
TrilogyHotel Sea Princess, 969 Juhu Tara Road (Juhu)
Tel: + 91 22 26611111.
Blue FrogD/2 Mathuradas Mills Compound, N.M. Joshi Marg (Lower Parel)
Tel: + 91 22 61586158.
Escobar190 V.N. Sphere Mall, 4th floor, Linking Road (Bandra)
Tel: + 91 22 42760000.
Business contacts
Franco-Indian Chamber of Commerce and Industry
6, square du Croisic, 75015 Paris.
Tel. : +33 970 440 252
Internet : www.ccifranceinde.com
Bombay Economic Mission
Wockhardt Towers, East Wing, 5th Floor, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra East.
Tel. : + 91 22 66 69 40 00
Internet ubifrance.fr
If you have...
An hour or two
It all depends on where you are. If you're in the north, take a walk along the beach at Juhu Beach or in the upmarket streets of Bandra. If you're in the south, you can choose between a diversion via the Gateway to India and the Taj Mahal Palace or a detour to the finest remains of colonial architecture, between the old Victoria Station, the University and the High Court.
One afternoon
A short tour of the south of the city, between the former Prince of Wales Museum and the shopping streets of Colabaand, further west, the Promenade de Marine Drive to the bubbling Chowpatty Beach. Along the way, it's also worth stopping off at Mani Bhavan (19 Laburnum Road), the residence where Gandhi stayed during his visits to Bombay, and which traces in all simplicity the career of one of the most admirable political figures of the twentieth century.
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