It's a legendary post-war brasserie where Jean Gabin used to have his napkin ring and feast on petit salé. Since the start of the new school year, this somewhat forgotten institution has been revived under the leadership of Alain Ducasse, who has applied a tried and tested recipe at Benoît and Aux Lyonnais. The idea is to retain the spirit of the place, but breathe new life into a sluggish cuisine, by putting young Laetitia Rouabah in charge. The result is a beautiful dining room with white tablecloths and red banquettes, creating a bright, discreet atmosphere. On the menu, you'll find a perfect blend of all the dishes that have made the restaurant's reputation - Challans duck with olives - and a few new ones to add to an already generous menu: marinated salmon accompanied by a well-oiled potato salad, exceptional beef cheek with carrots, not forgetting a rum savarin with perfectly whipped cream. Tradition has a way of doing things!
Allard, 1, rue de l'Éperon - 75006 Paris
Tel.: 01 43 26 48 23
