Of course, there are the endless ivory sand beaches dotted with coconut palms that quiver in the trade winds. There are the turquoise waters where multicoloured fish frolic and where diving is such a pleasure. There are also the spicy scents emanating from the colourful markets where madras-clad doudous cheerfully call out to tourists. But the Guadeloupe archipelago offers much more than these somewhat overused images!
In praise of nature
Between the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea, on the chain of islands of the Lesser Antilles, Guadeloupe, or Karukera, the island of beautiful waters, as it was called by the Caribbean Amerindians, is a veritable ode to nature! These two main islands, Basse-Terre and Grande-Terre, separated by the Salted River, spread their wings like butterflies. On Grande-Terre, sugar cane plantations line dreamy beaches. The landscape, sparse in relief, is punctuated by towns with a barely visible colonial past and tiny villages where the sun splashes on faded Creole huts. The groups generally land at the end of the day in Pointre-à-Pitre, the economic capital. As soon as they step onto the tarmac, they are enveloped in a gentle humidity. In the background, an invisible armada of tiny, thundering frogs. Welcome to the Tropics, where the thermometer rarely dips below 30°, but where night inevitably falls at 5pm.
One day is more than enough time to explore the town, which is a large village without much charm. The best time to visit the markets is at dawn, before the influx of tourists. Particularly at La Darse market, where you can watch the arrival of the fishermen and the immediate sale of their freshly caught fish, on rudimentary wooden stalls or even on the quayside. The smells of the tides mingle with those of the spices from the Saint-Antoine covered market just a stone's throw away: chillies, guavas, maracujas, coconuts, pineapples, bananas, breadfruit, plums from Cythère... The shopkeepers, in their beautiful madras, call out to the shoppers, pretending to shout at them before ending their apostrophes with a loud burst of laughter. Some of them, with a touch of naughtiness, extol the miraculous virtues of homemade love potions! On the outskirts of the market, street vendors offer caramboles, cinnamon apples, bottled pineapples, quenettes and acras. A merry hullabaloo of colours and scents.
Ti' Punch feet in the water
Other attractions include the Place de la Victoire, where some fine colonial houses still stand, the Maison de Saint-John Perse, which recounts the life and work of the poet, and the Musée Victor-Schoelcher, which displays personal objects belonging to this great advocate of the abolition of slavery. Groups can choose from several programmes. Starting with lazing around, punctuated by water sports, on the south coast of Grande-Terre, or the coast of Sainte-Anne at Pointe des Châteaux. In Saint-François, the trendy seaside resort, they can embark on a cruise to the other islands of the archipelago: Désirade, Marie-Galante, Les Saintes and Petite-Terre, two heavenly islets classified as nature reserves and home to an incredible variety of bird species and a colony of iguanas. There, guests usually enjoy a ti' punch with their feet in the water, picnic on the beach and dive to the exceptionally rich seabed. Back in Saint-François, they can try their hand at golf on the 18-hole international course designed by Robert Trent Jones, visit the Damoiseau distillery in Le Moule, privatised for the occasion, and finish the evening at the casino. Another option from Pointe-à-Pitre is a cruise to the tiny archipelago of Les Saintes.
The tone is set as soon as you arrive at the pier in Terre-de-Haut. Pretty saleswomen with blue eyes and surprisingly fair skin and hair - the local population is mostly descended from Bretons and Poitevins - offer arrivals love torments, delicious little cakes filled with coconut jam. The groups then set off to explore Les Saintes on scooters, often stopping off at Fort Napoléon, a Vauban-style military building completed in 1867 and colonised by an army of peaceful iguanas. Passing through the mangrove swamps of the Rivière Salée, the groups discover another Guadeloupe. The lush tropical forests, dizzying waterfalls, towering volcanoes and brown sand beaches of one of the world's most beautiful underwater reserves. In Basse-Terre, the wilderness has reclaimed its rightful place as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. The relief, shaped by volcanoes, is an ideal playground for all kinds of green incentive activities.
Forest, volcano and coral garden
In small groups, participants abseil down waterfalls, kayak across a river, hang-glide through the canopy and climb La Soufrière, an active volcano that rises to 1,467 metres and whose mood swings have sent tremors through Guadeloupe. The climb lasts 30 minutes and takes you through a moist, dense forest filled with tree ferns, gigantic philodendrons and other varieties endemic to the island. You'll need to set off early in the morning, around 6am, as the summit soon becomes overgrown.
But the view is well worth the effort. Pitons formed by solidified lava that stand like sentinels, fumaroles, rumblings, sulphurous monochrome floors... And above all, on a clear day, the panoramic view is exceptional. Les Saintes to the south, Marie-Galante and la Désirade to the east, the leeward coast to the west and the ridges of the Mornes to the north. The descent traditionally ends with a dip in one of the natural hot springs at Bains-Jaunes, at the foot of the Goyave mountains. The holiday then continues with an excursion to the îlets Pigeon, the famous Cousteau reserve that served as the backdrop for the film "Silent World". The crystal-clear seabed is easily accessible by diving. Coral patates provide refuge for a host of multicoloured fish, accompanied by sharks and sea turtles. This terrestrial and marine biodiversity, omnipresent in the Guadeloupe archipelago, has retained its original flavour. And just as well, it's fashionable. J.-E. R.
PRACTICAL GUIDE GUADELOUPE
Identity card
Located in the heart of the Caribbean, the Guadeloupe archipelago is part of the Lesser Antilles. It comprises five islands: Basse-Terre, Grande-Terre, La Désirade, Les Saintes and Marie-Galante. Formalities Valid identity card or passport. To make a phone call, dial the usual ten-digit number. Time difference -5 hours in winter and -6 hours in summer. Language: French and Creole. Currency: the euro. Best season: the average temperature is 26°C, with the trade winds cooling the atmosphere all year round. From December to April, the island enjoys a dry climate and milder temperatures, while from April to December temperatures rise and showers are frequent. Group sizes: incentive operations can vary from 20 to 200 people.
For more information
Comité du tourisme des îles de Guadeloupe 23-25, rue du Champ de l'Alouette, 75013 Paris - Tel: 01 40 62 99 07 - Fax: 01 40 62 99 08 Internet: www.lesilesdeguadeloupe.com
Practical guides
GUADELOUPE, GéoGuide and Encyclopédie du Voyage (Gallimard), Guide du Routard and Guide Voir (Hachette), Le Petit Futé.
Getting there From Paris-Orly Ouest, Air France offers a daily flight and two flights on Mondays, Fridays and Sundays. Tel: 36 54 - Internet: www.airfrance.com
Corsairfly operates a daily flight from Paris-Orly Sud. Tel: 0820 042 042 - Internet: www.corsairfly.com
Air Caraïbes operates one or two flights a day. Tel. 0820 835 835 - Internet: www.aircaraibes.com.
Hotels
CREOLE BEACH HÔTEL & SPA Nestling in a tropical park overlooking the azure blue sea, this four-star hotel on the Pointe de la Verdure in Gosier comprises several buildings linked by a maze of walkways and shaded galleries. The 330 rooms, including around twenty suites, offer a choice of views over the sea, the garden or the seafront. By the pool, the La Route des épices restaurant, with its two terraces, serves an international buffet, while the Zawag, set flush with the water in the rocks, serves Creole dishes including lobster and plenty of fish. On-site: spa, freshwater infinity pool, water sports including introductory scuba diving and sea scooter rides. Three meeting rooms for up to 200 people.
Gosier - Tel: 05 90 90 46 46 - Fax: 05 90 90 46 66 - Internet: www.creaolebeach.com
HOTEL ARAWAK 6 km from Pointe-à-Pitre, this three-star hotel is set on a sandy beach lined with coconut palms and bathed by the Atlantic. The backdrop is the mist-draped silhouette of La Soufrière volcano. The Creole decor of its 199 rooms blends perfectly with modern facilities. On site: Le Lafitte restaurant with themed buffets, swimming pool, whirlpool, tennis, kayaking, diving lessons and a meeting room with a capacity of 350 people. The hotel is currently completing renovation work which should earn it an extra star.
41, Pointe de la Verdure, Gosier - Tel: 05 90 84 24 24 - Fax: 05 90 84 38 45 - Internet: www.hotel-arawak.com
Conference centre
COMPLEX WORLD TRADE CENTRE - JARRY Meeting rooms for 15 to 450 people and 220-seat amphitheatre. Zone commerciale internationale, 97122 Baie Mahaut Tel: 05 90 25 06 00 - Fax: 05 90 25 06 06 - Internet: www.cwtcguadeloupe.com
Reception
Évasion & Loisirs Tours: Bd H. Ibéné, BP 30, 97180 Saint-Anne - Tel: 05 90 88 19 80 - Fax: 05 90 85 36 19 - Internet: www.evasion-loisirs-tours.com
Georges Marie-Gabrielle Voyages: 21, rue Alexandre Isaac, 97151 Pointe-à-Pitre - Tel: 05 90 21 08 08 - Fax: 05 90 90 04 82
Passion Outremer: 17, centre commercial Les Arcades, 97119 Saint-François - Tel: 05 90 47 17 17 - Fax: 05 90 47 06 96 - Internet: www.passion-outremer.com
Tropical Tour : Aéroport Pôle Caraïbes, porte 234, 97139 Abymes - Tel: 05 90 83 12 35 - Fax: 05 90 83 05 86 - Internet: www.tropical-tour.com
