A stony dune 40 km north of Salalah, capital of Dhofar, the southernmost province of the Sultanate of Oman. On this arid plain, curious shrubs with gnarled, downy branches grow in scattered rows, notably in the wadi Dawkah, the starting point of the mythical route of the "perfume of the gods". Historically, it is around this endemic shrub that the development of the region is based. Boswellia sacra secretes the world's most famous aromatic resin, and was once the most coveted incense. Its production has ensured the long-term prosperity of the country, an activity that has been lost in the mists of time, with trade in this gum being attested to well before the Christian era. Thus was born the incense route, which has linked Dhofar to the rest of the world since ancient times. This prosperous trade is linked to religious rituals and the symbolism of smoke, the wisps that unite earth and sky, the mortal and the immortal...
Organising a meeting with the Jabalis, the mountain Bedouins who have been extracting their resin for thousands of years, is an opportunity for groups to familiarise themselves with the culture of incense. Learning how to identify the tree to be harvested (which must be at least ten years old), how to cut the bark into thin strips, and how to collect, dry and sort the resin are all opportunities to interact with the local people. The luban, a dense, milky substance, beads slowly before coagulating after a few days to take on the appearance of crystals of varying colours. Those from the wadi Dawkah are translucent white, the best quality there is, al-Hojari used in perfumery, but also, diluted in water, used for its medicinal virtues in the treatment of digestive disorders and respiratory tract ailments. At the incense souk in Salalah, where it is widely sold, it can now be found in the form of chewing gum. The other, darker qualities are used in smoke to purify and perfume homes, and traditionally to bring good news when burnt on the terrace of the house.
The history of this resin takes the groups to two mythical places, key passages in its trade. From time immemorial, in the oral tradition of the Bedouins, and then in the writings of Antiquity, mention is made of a caravan city prospering around a watering place on the edge of the Rub al-Khali desert: Iram, Irem, Wabar or Ubar... The Koran also refers to this site, indicating that it was built by the great-grandchildren of Noah and subsequently destroyed because of the polytheistic and decadent lifestyle of its inhabitants. Thus was written the tragic destiny of Ubar, a city that disappeared into the sands by divine will... A myth that lived on until the 1980s, when NASA satellite photos revealed a convergence of tracks around buried constructions.
Excavations have uncovered a fortress and a wealth of artefacts (cooking utensils, jewellery, incense burners, etc.), some dating back to the third millennium BC. These are the remains of a stronghold comprising a circular tower and adjoining rooms (11th-12th centuries BC) that visitors can now explore in the Inner Dhofar, 170 km south of Salalah. Only archaeology buffs will be able to appreciate these venerable stones, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Nevertheless, treading on the Atlantis of the sands, the oasis that preceded the long desert crossing, the original route for exporting incense to Egypt by camel in convoys of 2,000 animals, is likely to provoke real emotions. The myth of Laurence of Arabia runs through the mind, especially as this visit is often combined with that of the Rub al-Khali, the Empty Quarter, and its infinite dunes where you can camp for a night or more, with a contemplative sequence that is highly enriching in terms of the Bedouin's approach to the desert. Meditation in relative silence, in the evening around the wood fire: depending on the strength of the wind, you can hear a fly flying, just as you can feel yourself being held hostage by a giant hairdryer in the 'hot' position.
40km east of Salalah, on the coast this time, the port of Samhuram (Khor Rori) is the other key stop on the incense route. Surrounded by the mountains of Jebel Qara and dominating the wide mouth of a wadi opening onto the sea between two cliffs linked by a dazzling sandbank, it is an exceptionally well-protected natural harbour and the most important archaeological site in the sultanate. Fortified on a promontory overlooking the river, the site includes a monumental gateway, a residential area, shops and warehouses, as well as a temple dedicated to the moon god (Syn). The Italian archaeologists leading the excavations date the settlement to the 4th century BC. Stone inscriptions indicate that it was a trading port where incense played a key role. The construction of a museum is planned. In the meantime, the artefacts discovered - incense burners, jewellery and pottery - have been brought together in the Salalah Incense Museum, a pleasant, private venue with a contemporary museography. In particular, it traces the many land and sea routes taken by incense: first to Egypt via the desert of present-day Yemen and Saudi Arabia as early as 2590 BC, Then on to Mesopotamia and India, the Greek and Roman empires, Iran and China, and finally Africa from the 16th century onwards... There is ample evidence of Oman's rich maritime history, which is reflected in the exhibition's details of the ship models used and the way they were built, using a special technique of assembling wooden parts without using metal, using rope "staples".
The largest expanse of sand
Some 1,000 km from Muscat, the capital, Dhofar, on the fringes of Yemen, is a 1h20 flight away by air on a daily flight, and offers a concentration of the country's specific geographical and historical features. The region is a narrow coastal strip (8 km at its widest) bathed in turquoise waters and surrounded by mountain ranges, beyond which stretch the vast uninhabited spaces of the Rub al-Khali, the largest expanse of sand in the world. Here, a mountain society scattered inland coexists with a society of fishermen and traders concentrated on the coast. Yahya Masoud al-Abrawi of Tri Travel, an incoming agency, points out that "this is an advantage that incentive operations benefit from greatly. In just half a day, participants can experience a radical change of environment, diving into the Arabian Sea to discover the giant seaweed forests bordering the coral reefs, then crossing the mountains to spend the night in a Bedouin-style camp in the middle of the desert". The Dohfar adds a local speciality to this great diversity: its monsoon climate, with rains from July to September, transforms the seafront of the jebels into landscapes as green as a Swiss mountain pasture, pierced by often spectacular waterfalls formed by the flash floods of the wadis, which form natural pools where bathing is a delight.
While culturally fascinating, the Incense Route also offers groups a wealth of alternative activities to those practised in the mountains and desert. Discovering the coastline to the west of Salalah on private dhows takes you to magnificent beaches and coves that would otherwise be inaccessible; nestling in the lunar landscape of Jebel Qamar, a string of deserted beaches make ideal stops for lunch, a camp or a team-building event. All kinds of water sports can be practised on this southern coast, as can fishing, which is miraculous here, by taking a boat and crew out for a private charter at the pretty port of Mirbat, for example (70 km from Salalah). Yahya Masoud al-Abrawi points out that "the government is investing heavily in rehabilitating its forts, an important heritage of hundreds of units, some of which will soon be a thousand years old and some of which can already be privatised, such as Taqa, 30 km from Salalah".
Meet a family
Generally speaking, the great Omani hospitality means that nothing is really impossible, such as diving (without a tank) with abalone fishermen near Sadha (130km east of Salalah). "You can also organise a visit to a mosque in the company of its imam, learn about camel milking with the Bedouins, meet a family to talk about the country's customs, including marriage, which allows polygamy under certain conditions, and how to dress and cook. In Salalah, the region's major city, which stands out clearly from the capital Muscat thanks to its tropical climate and its coconut and banana plantations blossoming right in the middle of the city, the groups will discover the family cuisine of coconut milk cooked with cardamom, saffron and, of course, incense, the region's white gold, which we can safely assume is more enduring than oil.
Identity card
In the south-east of the Arabian Peninsula, on the shores of the Gulf of Oman and the Arabian Sea, the Sultanate of Oman shares its borders with the United Arab Emirates to the north, Saudi Arabia to the west and Yemen to the south-west. This monarchy, which has been independent since the middle of the 18th century, now relies on an economy based primarily on oil and gas. Population: 2,400,000, including 800,000 in Muscat, the capital in the north of the country.
Formalities
- Passport valid for at least six months after the date of entry. Visas are compulsory for French nationals. It can be obtained in Paris from the embassy (90, rue de Courcelles, 75008 Paris - Tel: 01 47 23 01 63) or at Muscat airport (€12).
- Area code: +968
- Time difference: +3 h in winter, +2 h in summer
- Languages: Arabic and English
- Currency: Omani rial (OMR), divided into 1,000 baïzas - 1 OMR = approximately €2
- Best season Between October and April (25°-30°) to avoid the scorching summer temperatures. From June to September, the Dhofar region, which receives monsoon rains, experiences cooler temperatures (20°-25°).
- Ideal group size The Dhofar region is best suited to groups of no more than 50 people. In Muscat, on the other hand, the capacity is much greater, as is the range of facilities and services on offer.
How to get there
Oman Air is the only airline to offer non-stop direct flights from Paris to Muscat. This route lasts around 7.5 hours and is operated by an Airbus A330-200 with four weekly flights from CDG 2A (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday).
Oman Air also operates five daily flights between Muscat and Salalah, except on Sundays (4 flights a day). Journey time: 1h20.
For more information
Sultanate of Oman Tourist Office
90, rue de Courcelles, 75008 Paris
Tel.: 01 47 23 01 63
E-mail: info@omantourisme.com / Internet: omantourisme.com
Hotels
Shangri-La's Barr Al Jissah Resort And Spa
Muscat, with its high-quality infrastructure, is a must for incentive trips and events involving large numbers of participants. At the top of the range, the Shangri-La, on the seafront, 15 minutes from Mutrah and 45 minutes from the airport, consists of three hotels, all with sea-facing rooms with balconies or terraces. The widely-spaced buildings create a soothing atmosphere in the remarkable setting of the cliffs enclosing the bay, made up of small independent beaches linked by a seafront promenade onto which most of the resort's 8 restaurants open. With an open-air amphitheatre with a capacity of 1,000 people, a number of private outdoor areas including a beach, a ballroom (700 covers) and a choice of flexible meeting rooms, this Shangri-La is well versed in managing large-scale, sophisticated events.
Tel: +968 24 77 66 66 / Fax: +968 24 77 66 77
Internet: www.shangri-la.com
Salalah Marriott Resort
The Marriott chain's first establishment in the sultanate, the hotel opened in February 2010 and is located by the sea, 75 km from Salalah airport. Built around a vast swimming pool, it has 234 rooms and suites, each with a balcony or terrace. Featuring a Moorish café, an English pub and a lobby lounge facing the sea, this new Marriott offers two restaurants, a spa and a fitness room. Business centre and 590 m2 of meeting space.
Salalah Beach, Mirbat
Phone: +968 23 26 82 45 / Fax: +968 23 26 82 71
Internet: www.marriott.com
Reception
- Tri Travel: P.O. Box 365 118, Hormuz Building, Ruwi Street / Internet: www.tritraveloman.com
- Muscat Desert Adventures Tourism: P.O. Box 809, Muscat PC 133, Al Khwair, Shatti Al Qurum, Al Sarrooj Street / Internet: www.desertadventures.com
- Gulf Ventures: P.O. Box 1938, PC 130, Al Azaiba / Internet: www.gulfventures.ae
Good ideas
- Bivouac in the desert, swimming in the wadis.
- Take advantage of a private dhow to discover the coastline and beaches that are inaccessible by road.
- Free camping is permitted throughout the region, so lunch, dinner or camping on the beach are all possible options.
Shopping
Incense, of course, carpets made by the Bedouins in the mountains, traditional clothing, khanjars (carved silver and horn daggers), spices, pottery and jewellery.
Practical guides
- Oman and the United Arab Emirates, Bibliothèque du voyageur, Gallimard
- Oman, Country guide, The Petit Futé
