It's no use. All you have to do is mention the Bahamas and, under a veil of blue lagoon, you are at best the fifty-first state of the United States of America, at worst a tax haven where every coconut tree hides a financial sign, and in any case a paradise for wealthy tourists with a very negative impact on the environment. What?" exclaims Eric Carey, Director of the Bahamas National Trust, the organisation that manages all the Bahamian parks. We didn't wait for the recent increase in international awareness to make the Bahamas one of the most environmentally conscious countries in the world. The first park was created some fifty years ago, and today we have twenty-six parks, half of them on land and the other half a mix of land and sea. We're looking into the possibility of opening three more". This is enough to dispel the preconceived ideas that cling to this country-archipelago of more than 700 islands and 2,000 islets spread over 250,000 km2, 80 km off the coast of Florida.
And while it is true that the port of Nassau, the capital, moors five or six gigantic ships at the same time; while it is confirmed that some resorts can accommodate thousands of tourists or conference delegates, it is equally true that the bulk of visitors are confined to a few islands, leaving the others to their own devices and others still to the solitude of those who love the Big Blue.
Pink sand and pastel houses
Nassau, then. Located on the small island of New Providence, the capital and economic heart of the Bahamas handles almost all international flights. It's a big town, with houses delightfully painted almond green, sky blue, pale yellow and above all baby pink, in reference to the colour of the pink flamingo, the country's symbol bird. No more than two or three storeys high, with balconies and pergolas and, above all, a marvellous nonchalance, a genuine sense of welcome that deserves to be underlined three times over and a humidity that reminds us that we're here, right under the Tropic of Cancer. There's also the Governor's Palace and a number of old mansions that are relics of England's colonial past, including the legendary Graycliff, which once played host to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Lord Mountbatten and Sir Winston Churchill, as well as Al Capone during Prohibition. Now transformed into a charming hotel under the leadership of Enrico Garzaroli, the slightly old-fashioned venue houses one of the best restaurants in the Caribbean, an award-winning cigar factory and, above all, an exceptional wine cellar, claimed to be the third largest in the world. Groups are welcome here, even for a cocktail party or gala dinner.
Much more popular is the Fish Fry Market on the outskirts of Nassau, a line of multicoloured shacks and cheerful Caribbean-style guinguettes, where you can try your first succulent conch (lambi) salad. Finally, there's the port, with its morning bustle that would make it look like any other port in the world, were it not for the fact that its quays are often blocked by the porthole walls of the ocean liners moored there. For the duration of a stopover, their sides pour out an ocean of cruise passengers - up to 3,000 at a time - who, as soon as they step ashore, inevitably head for Bay Street, the city's main thoroughfare. In fact, they're the only ones to make the same kind of dash in the midst of this amiable slowness. And where to? On Bay Street, of course; on the poem that is Bay Street, with its tax-free shops offering the very best in watches, jewellery, cosmetics and international ready-to-wear. The avenue is also lined with bars, fast-food outlets so air-conditioned you could stand to wear a fleece, banks, a Pirate Museum - piracy has played a large part in the history of the Bahamas - and bazaars selling tons of naughty souvenirs, so ugly they're almost scary. These tourists will hardly have time to take a look at the twin island, Paradise Island, which is so close that it can be reached by a simple bridge. And that's a shame.
Colourful, entertaining, sensational
Paradise Island deserves its name, if only for the sublime white sand beach that borders it, with its turquoise sea and shivering coconut palms. The One and Only Ocean Club is no exception, having set up shop in a former colonial mansion that has been transformed into a very exclusive hotel. Of course, if you're hosting a top-of-the-range cocktail party, you can make certain areas private, such as the library or, better still, the esplanade overlooking the beach, which is so well grassed you'd think you were walking on a high-wool carpet. Peace on earth. A peace protected by a tropical garden and therefore in no way disturbed by Atlantis, a major attraction in the Bahamas, even though it is only ten minutes away by shuttle.
Atlantis is huge, out of all proportion, recreational, educational, sensational... The complex, the brainchild of South African billionaire Sol Kerzner, covers more than four hectares and offers no fewer than 2,300 rooms and suites, along with more than twenty restaurants, fifteen bars, a casino - obviously the largest in the Caribbean - and a conference centre that can accommodate groups of between 20 and 4,000 people. All spread across towers and buildings that are supposed to represent Atlantis. But it's the attractions, which can also be enjoyed on a daily basis, that are truly breathtaking. Notably with the reconstitution of a Mayan pyramid, where the traditional steps have been transformed into a near-vertical slide... And as if the plunge wasn't enough - feet first, after all - the designers have added a Plexiglas tube at the end of the vertigo, which crosses a vast pool where sharks frolic. These predators are not the only guests at Atlantis, since the complex, which is in fact one of the largest marine reserves in the world, is home to some 50,000 animals belonging to 200 species living in the surrounding waters in its eleven lagoons and aquariums.
Then there are the swimming pools, the mega-aquariums where the ruins of Atlantis are recreated, a wave river that you ride down perched on a buoy, swimming with dolphins or, for the more adventurous, a dive in the shark aquarium... These are activities you'll never want to miss out on, and they're sure to make your incentive day or days a success, even though they're a long way from the Bahamian reality, which you'll discover by visiting two or three of the archipelago's other islands. Because these islands are all different. By their geography, their history, their culture and the atmosphere they exude.
Embark on a day trip to Harbour Island, just under three hours by ferry from Nassau. A mini-cruise to get to know the local population and check, if proof were needed, of their extreme friendliness and unbelievable availability. This friendliness is found everywhere in the village of Dunmore Town, the main town on Harbour Island, the iconic island of the Bahamas. Why iconic? Because it was once the archipelago's first capital, because today it's a haven for the international jet-set, because its five-kilometre long pink sand beach is one of the most beautiful in the world, and because the village of 2,000 inhabitants, with its charming wooden houses and churches buried in a profusion of vegetation, exudes charm. Its narrow streets, full of potholes, add to the atmosphere. There are few, if any, cars, but golf carts for everyone, locals and visitors alike, which make for a delightful treasure hunt. You arrive at the port - a jetty and five or six small fishing boats, that's all - and an old bistro where, under the pergola, fans are struggling to stir the tropical air. A day is enough to visit the island, but you can also spend the night (small groups of 15 to 50 people), as Harbour Island has some of the best charming hotels in the world.
Back to Nassau, the almost obligatory hub for all the islands in the archipelago, and immediate departure for a day on the wild and 100 % ecotourism rock of Andros. Peter Douglas, director of the Andros tourist office and responsible for sustainable development, sets the tone straight away: "We have no need for mass tourism on this island where we live like kings. However, we are not against the construction of small units that respect nature, bungalows hidden in the vegetation, things like that, you see..." Yes, we see! And we see so well that "things like that" already exist. They take the form of the Small Bay Lodge, an eco-lodge run by Jeff Birch.
Respect for the environment
Laid-back lounges, big farm tables, respect for the environment, hammocks under coconut palms and beachside bungalows. It's simple but comfortable, a little baba cool, and a thousand light years away from an ordinary boutique hotel. But the fact remains that it's very popular, and the Small Bay Lodge is well frequented by intellectuals and artists, including Pierre Trudeau, former Prime Minister of Canada, Jacques Cousteau, a NASA team and many celebrities from the medical world. Speciality: the sea, its preservation, fishing and scuba diving, Andros being one of the best spots in the Bahamas. The ocean, of course, but also the discovery of the island's flora and fauna: snorkelling for the underwater life, canoeing for the mangrove swamps and even cycling through the immense pine forests to discover the enigmatic blue holes of the Bahamas, gigantic natural reservoirs of fresh water which, starting from a lake, sink to great depths in inextricable caverns and gutters.
As you can see, groups who love the great outdoors but don't mind a bit of nightlife won't find what they're looking for on Andros. They will find it on Grand Bahama Island, the country's second-largest economic and tourist centre, offering the very best in international hotels, nightlife, shopping, nature parks and sporting activities. As far as hotels are concerned, Our Lucaya Beach and Golf Resort is without doubt the most suitable establishment for incentives and reward operations. A huge building in the shape of a wave with particularly interesting architecture, 1,218 rooms and suites, 12 restaurants and lounges, an 8,300 m2 conference centre, sub-commission rooms, all able to accommodate between 12 and 1,000 participants. Of course, a team specially dedicated to corporate groups offers a host of activities both inside and outside the resort to make your stay as fun as it is rewarding. Inside the Resort: landscaped swimming pools, spa, fitness, tennis, shopping village, casino, sea fishing, jet-skiing, sea kayaking, diving, etc. Outside: golf, sea walks, swimming with dolphins in a pool or in the open sea, cycling in the national park, canoeing through the tangle of mangrove swamps as the tide rises, discovering the ecosystems and medicinal herbs that are a real tradition in the Bahamas.The use of medicinal plants is a real part of Bahamian culture," says Karin Mallet Gautier of the Paris Tourist Office. So we organise treasure hunts around this theme, with people discovering and searching for herbs in the countryside, then sampling them... Obviously, the aphrodisiac plants are a big hit. Especially with the gentlemen".
The Abacos, a 30-minute flight
So why not take a trip to the Abacos, a 30-minute flight from Nassau or Grand Bahama Island. Nick Miaoulis, director of Abaco Neem, runs an organic cosmetics factory based on the sap of the neem tree, which grows in the Abacos. A very friendly man, he is happy to take groups on a tour of his growing grounds, showing them around his factory and explaining the cosmetics-making process. A great success. But this time with the ladies. And while we're at it, let's hop on board for a fifteen-minute crossing to Hope Town, where most of the inhabitants are descended from the first settlers who arrived in 1783, after the American Revolution. You'd be forgiven for thinking you were in New England. Everything is clean, tidy and meticulous... The houses, which are tiny by comparison, are impeccably painted in pastel shades; they stand as they should on short-cut lawns and are necessarily surrounded by white-painted wooden fences. Immaculate, it goes without saying. Not many people in the alleys, the peace is absolute... It's perfect, almost too perfect. Above the hill, the old red and white striped lighthouse welcomes the many pleasure boaters in the area. It reassures and symbolises. If its walls could speak, they would certainly say: "Come! Come and see us. You'll see how sweet life can be".
Identity card
The archipelago of the Bahamas, an independent state and member of the Commonwealth, covers 13,935 km2 of land and 259,000 km2 of territorial waters, 80 km south-west of the coast of Florida. More than 700 islands, just below the Tropic of Cancer and 303,778 inhabitants. An exceptional welcome and absolute safety.
Formalities : Passport valid for 6 months after the date of entry.
Area code + 1 242 + 7 digits.
Time difference : - 6 hours compared with France.
Language : English.
Currency : the Bahamian dollar (BSD) is at parity with the US dollar.
Best season : all year round, as there is no rainy season in the Bahamas.
Ideal group size : We can accommodate up to 30 people for very exclusive groups, and up to 1,000 participants for conferences in Nassau or Grand Bahama.
For more information
Bahamas Tourist Board.
113-115, rue du Cherche Midi, 75006 Paris. Tel: 01 45 26 62 62 - E-mail: info@bahamas.fr. Internet site: www.bahamas.fr
How to get there
British Airways operates the Paris Roissy CDGNassau route, via London Heathrow (direct London-Nassau flight) in 13 h 15, door-to-door, with one flight every day except Mondays and Thursdays, operated by Boeing 767-200. Departure from Paris at 7.50am, arrival in London at 8.55am. Take-off again at 9.50am and arrival in Nassau at 3pm.
Tel: 0825 825 600 - Internet: www.ba.com
Other companies
Air France-Delta Paris/Atlanta/Nassau, daily flight.
Internet: www.airfrance.fr and www.delta.com
American Airlines Paris/Miami/Nassau or Paris/Miami/Freeport, daily flights.
Internet: www.aa.com
Corsairfly / Bahamasair Paris/Miami/Nassau, Mondays and Fridays from 17 December 2010.
Internet : www.corsairfly.com and www.bahamasair.com
Hotels
Atlantis (Nassau, Paradise Island)
The theme of the complex: Atlantis. Many of the attractions are based on the myth of the lost city. The same goes for the aesthetics of the buildings, as only South African billionaire Sol Kerzner dared to do. In addition to the 4-hectare play areas, the complex features 5 hotels: The Cove, The Reef, Royal Towers, Beach Towers and Coral Towers, with almost 3,000 rooms. The Congress and Convention Centre is also out of all proportion, with a conference hall for up to 4,000 participants and a ballroom for 2,700 people. Not to mention sub-committee rooms, cocktail areas, etc.
Tel: +1 800 722 2449 - Internet: www.atlantis.com
Sheraton Nassau Beach Resort (Nassau)
Here, 15 minutes from Nassau airport, is the alternative to the Altantis, a resort designed less like an amusement park. The resort is located on a 300 m beach, has 3 swimming pools with waterfalls, a casino, 694 fully-equipped rooms and suites, a conference centre and 6 restaurants.
P.O. Box 4914. West Bay St. Nassau, Bahamas - Tel: (242) 327 60 00 - Internet : www.sheraton.com/nassau
Small Hope Bay Lodge (Andros Island)
A small lodge whose owners are committed to sustainable development. For small, very exclusive groups. 13 single rooms and 4 twin rooms.
Fresh Creek, Andros Island, Bahamas. Tel: (242) 368 2013 - Internet: www.smallhope.com
Radisson Our Lucaya Beach And Golf Resort (Grand Bahama Island)
A white liner on the beach, satellite buildings housing a convention centre, and a secluded family village. 1,218 rooms, restaurants, bars, swimming pools, meeting rooms and a host of activities. Sea Horse Road, Freeport Lucaya, Grand Bahama
Island - Tel: (242) 373 13 33. Internet : www.ourlucaya.com
Other hotels
Paradise Island: One and Only Ocean Club Paradise Island.
Internet: www.oneandonlyoceanclub.com
Harbour Island: Pink Sands and Coral Sands.
Internet : www.pinksandsresort.com and www.coralsands.com
The Abacos: Abaco Beach Resort.
Internet : www.abacobeachresort.com
Restaurant
Graycliff (Nassau, Providence Island)
This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful colonial houses in Nassau. It is also one of the most legendary, having been built by a notorious pirate in the 18th century and then frequented by the English gentry, as well as the American underworld, including Al Capone during Prohibition. Now transformed into a charming hotel, its restaurant boasts one of the best in the Caribbean, while its wine cellar is the 3rd largest in the world. There is also a cigar factory and a simpler steak house.
8-14 West Hill St. Nassau - Tel: (242) 302 91 50. Internet : www.graycliff.com
Reception
Majestic Tours Limited.
Hillside Manor, Cumberland St. P.O. Box N 1401. Nassau - Tel: (242) 322 26-06. E-mail: kingdom@majesticholidays.com. Internet address: www.majesticholidays.com
Good ideas
Scuba diving, water sports, swimming in the pool and in the sea with dolphins, underwater scooters, deep-sea fishing, cookery classes and competitions, candlelit dinners on the beach, a day at Atlantis in Nassau, lunch or dinner in the guinguettes.
Shopping
Seashells sold in pretty transparent bags, jewellery and clothing in Nassau's duty-free shops, very attractive perfumes and cosmetics, basketwork and Bahamian batiks: Androsia or BahamaHandPrints.
Practical guide
"BahamasPetit Futé. Internet : www.petitfute.com
Special report - Bahamas: under the tropic, exactly
- Bahamas: In the tropics, exactly
Interview: Karin Mallet Gautier Director of the Bahamas Tourist Office in Paris
