Scotland - Cities of history, lands of poets

It's a suite of racy elegance, with no frills or excess, where tartan tiles reign supreme, from the curtains to the bedspread. Room 552 in Edinburgh's legendary Balmoral Hotel would be almost ordinary if, in January 2007, J. K. Rowling hadn't put the finishing touches to the last book of Harry Potter. Since then, this famous suite has been named after the novelist, no doubt inspired by the view - magical, of course - over the city's rooftops. An autograph is even displayed on one of its walls...

This is hardly surprising, given that the young wizard is on course to dethrone Sherlock Holmes in the pantheon of Scottish heroes! Admittedly, he doesn't yet have his own statue in Edinburgh, unlike the phlegmatic detective frozen in eternity on Picardy Place, the very spot where Sir Conan Doyle was born. But if you can't visit the Hogwarts School that sprang from J.K. Rowling's imagination, everything connected with the saga has become a veritable cult. Like the Elephant Café, the pumpkin-fronted tea room where the writer, contemplating the town's castle, invented the character who has made her fortune today. On its window, the words "Birthplace of Harry Potter reminds us of the new dimension "historical The wizard is not just a goldmine for his author. The wizard is not only a goldmine for his author, but also for the Scottish capital, which hosts a crazy convention of Harry Potter fans once a year. And the incentive agencies also find it a pretext for new programmes, going so far as to privatise a carriage on the steam train linking Fort William to Mallaig, in the north-west of Scotland, for a two-hour journey that culminates in the crossing of the Glenfinnan viaduct, immortalised in the film adaptation of the wizard's adventures...

Under the spell of a young sorcerer
Like an echo of this frenzy "PotterianGhosts have never been so fashionable in Edinburgh. The city's very formal and massive architecture, with its grey Georgian-style mansions, is no doubt partly to blame. The city's "ghost toursWhen night falls, the famous "closesThe sloping, cut-throat streets of the medieval quarter are the setting for a number of scary - but always funny - encounters with costumed actors. After all, wasn't Dr Jekyll, aka Mister Hyde, inspired by the story of a local notable? Scotland's capital is full of these blood-curdling stories, ideal for treasure hunts and trendy trails. "gore". To spice up the action even further, we sometimes use "black cabsThose famous black taxis that run off into the night. With a bit of rain, it's even better! In any case, the route from the new town to Arthur's Seat, that strange wild mountain in the heart of the city, is not short of excitement. Of course, you'll pass along the Royal Mile, the historic thoroughfare of Old Town, with its tall medieval houses, and you'll stop here and there to listen to some "pipers play their bagpipes.

A tormented history
Edinburgh Castle stands proudly at one end of this royal road, a vast medieval fortress where some of the most violent episodes in Scottish history took place. "We organise dinners for a hundred or so people by torchlight, accompanied by costumed characters; or we hold cocktail parties in its central square, called Crown Square, for groups of up to 300 people".says Jayne Hinds, Historic Scotland's Corporate Events Sales Manager. "You can invite guests to wear the kilt," laughs Helen Manning, a tour guide. It's deliciously sexy if it's worn properly!" The jewels of the Scottish crown are hidden behind the thick walls of the fortress. An incentive allows you to approach them in a very exclusive way, but always under the inquisitive gaze of very serious guards... When it comes to atmosphere, Sterling Castle, 50 kilometres from Edinburgh, is not to be outdone. It organises dinners for up to 300 people, giving you the chance to try haggis, the famous stuffed sheep's belly! With the added bonus of a historical guarantee. It was here in 1297 that William Wallace drove the English out of Scotland.

But for now, let's get back to Edinburgh. At the other end of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyrood is the official residence of Elizabeth II. It is open to visitors, though there is no question of privatising it, as Her Majesty is not keen on lending out her belongings... But lovers of crowned heads can rest assured that the Britannia will give them a taste of the royal glamour! Her former ceremonial yacht - a real little liner - is enjoying a well-deserved retirement in the port of the Scottish capital. For 40 years, she sailed Elizabeth II around the world and is now hired out for events, for up to 176 people. It's all there: sailors in gala dress, champagne served in the lounge with its floral canapés, and even dancing, "necessarily royal. And, as a bonus, the privilege of visiting the Queen's cabin!

1) The warm atmosphere of its pubsOne of the many attractions of the Scottish capital.
2 ) In the streets of Edinburgh Ghosts and spirits reign, ferments that have fed the imagination of the many writers who were born there, such as Stevenson, Conan Doyle and Walter Scott, or who have left their mark there, such as J. K. Rowling.
3 ) Robert Brucewho became king under the name of Robert I of Scotland and won the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314, which sealed Scotland's independence for a time, embodies the spirit of resistance to his English neighbour.

Faced with the imposing majesty of Edinburgh, industrial Glasgow, with its steaming factories and grimy warehouses, was long neglected. Even though only 70 kilometres separated the aristocracy and upper middle classes from the working classes. But that was before Glasgow halted its decline and transformed itself into a city. "trendy. Its heavy red-brick Victorian buildings are now home to fashion boutiques and art galleries. Its former banks, adorned with monumental sculptures, remnants of the opulent 19th century when the Empire's second city was its commercial showcase, have been transformed into trendy restaurants and clubs, like the Corinthian Club. "You might prefer Sloan's, the oldest restaurant in the city, lost in Argyll Arcade, a covered passage reminiscent of those in Paris".explains tour guide Marion Maudsley. The city centre closes in around George Square and the statue of Queen Victoria. You only have to stroll down Buchanan Street to feel the vibrancy of Scotland's young people, enjoying their turbulence as they leave the nearby university. These young people can be found on the steps of the new Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, before enjoying themselves in the neighbouring pubs. The contrast with the tranquillity of the nearby cathedral, the only Catholic building to have survived the Protestant Reformation, is all the stronger.

Firmly established on its rocky promontoryEdinburgh Castle has dominated the city since the 11th century. Modified several times, its walls tell the eventful story of a country proud of its heroes, whose statues adorn the entrance to a place that also lends itself to holding events with a "royal" theme.

Abandoned buildings, disused warehouses... this post-modern setting was conducive to artistic expression in all its forms. Following in the footsteps of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, architects, painters and musicians let their talents shine, whether in Merchant City, the former commercial district that has become very active culturally, or at the more classic GOMA (Galery of Modern Art), the museum of contemporary art housed in the former stock exchange, which lends itself well to cocktail parties. This artistic frenzy extends to the city's suburbs, along the River Clyde, where the old shipyards have been replaced by boldly designed buildings, like the brand new Riverside Museum, dedicated to transport. The curvaceous building, dominated by a glass façade with four peaks, was designed by Zaha Hadid, the new star of international architecture. This museum, which opens its doors for private parties, also contributes to strengthening an already rich cultural offering, including the Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum. Behind its Victorian façade, it hides a strange jumble, a bit as if the Musée d'Orsay, the Louvre and the Natural History Museum were one and the same in Paris! This evening, a gala dinner will be held in its vast hall, watched by a stuffed elephant who is still wondering what that warplane hanging overhead is doing! But for the moment, hordes of schoolgirls in pleated skirts and ponytails are livening up the grand staircase...

The Highlands and the soul of the Celtic gods
Discovering Glasgow and Edinburgh is obviously not enough to penetrate the Scottish soul. To unlock its mysteries, you need to go further afield, to the aptly named Highlands, the highlands where the souls of the Celtic gods lurk and the horns of the clan chiefs are still blown. A team-building session on the theme of the Highland Games, the traditional competition that brings each village to life during the summer, is a highly entertaining way to get started, with improbable events such as tree trunk throwing on the menu! If you want to immerse yourself in the Scottish countryside, Loch Lomond, an hour's drive from Glasgow, is the place to go. But the ideal way - provided you have two days to spare - is to head for the town of Inverness, at the end of Loch Ness. It's a good three-hour drive or an hour by seaplane.

1, 2 ) Battered by the windsThe Scottish moorland is a breeding ground for some delightful local species that have managed to adapt to the harsh climate: the Highland Cattle with its long red hair and the Boreray sheep, whose wool is used to make tweeds and rugs.
3 ) Loch Lomond, Scotland's second-largest lake after Loch Ness lends itself to sporting sailing as well as more recreational cruising.
4 ) Oban, port of embarkation for the Isle of Mullin the Hebrides archipelago has been attracting tourists since the early 19th century.
5 ) The nature of Scotland is expressed in the stark contrast of colours, where the green of the flora combines with the black of the rivers and the grey of the granite rock.

Deep black lochs
The climb to these highlands is never monotonous. In the land of lochs and glens, valleys of glacial origin, the raw, wild landscapes never cease to change, as if by mischief, with the twists and turns of the road... And with the choice of clouds too, depending on whether they are budding in a blue sky or blackening the horizon, taking on magnificent dark greys. The yellow of the gorse in flower is matched by the purple of the heather; the steely lakes replicate the meadows, shaved like golf greens by industrious sheep. These balls of wool pellet like crazy, taking over the hills or sharing the space with strange long-haired cows, the Highland Cattle, sympathetically nicknamed "the cows". "hippies. "In Scotland, there are 5 million inhabitants... and 10 million sheep".Helen Manning recalls with a smile.

On the way, it's impossible to resist. You'll find yourself scanning the waters of the famous Loch Ness, looking for God knows what behind the slightest puff of wind that lights up its surface, and hoping to come face to face with Nessie. To give you every chance, you can even take a private cruise on the lake aboard the Jacobite Queen, which can accommodate 160 people. Of course, nothing on the horizon! But don't you dare tell a Scotsman that Nessiterras Rhombopteryx, the scientific name of the "monsteris pure invention. It could make people angry! Then there's the 38-kilometre loch, whose dark waters cut through the mountains like a steel blade. It's certainly not the most beautiful in the country, but it is the most famous. It's also the deepest: 250 metres.

1 ) Ruined castles and deep lakes The soul of the Highlands lies in this confrontation between a rugged, virile nature and the marks of a chivalrous past in which Scottish warriors remained famous for their fierce defence of their territory, starting with William Wallace, immortalised in the film Braveheart.
2 ) Dating back to the Ice Age, lochs carve out the Scottish landscapeThese include freshwater lakes, like the most famous of them all, Loch Ness, which weave their way between moors and valleys, and seawater fjords, like Loch Fyne on the edge of the Argyll Mountains.
3 ) Rich in trout and salmonThe rivers of the highlands are ideal for fly-fishing, a relaxing way to enjoy nature.

The setting takes on an even more powerful quality as you approach Glen Coe, where the sky makes a point of being low and heavy; where the mists fall asleep in the hollows of the valleys. It's like an echo of the massacre of the Mac Donald clan in 1692, which laid waste to this narrow valley where the earth, a little petty, a little punishing, never stops cracking and gorging itself with water. Between bare mountains and wild tawny steppes punctuated by a few white farms, this is one of the most beautiful landscapes in Scotland. Without doubt. And one that inspires filmmakers such as Mel Gibson, who shot several scenes from Braveheart here. While some of the subtleties of the country's history may be beyond the grasp of French visitors, they will have a field day in this mecca of fishing, climbing and trekking. Marked trails even lead to Her Majesty Ben Nevis, which at 1,344 metres lays claim to the title of Britain's roof.

Green Scotland
Fans of green tourism can also opt for Aviemore. Situated in the Cairngorms National Park, this small resort town offers a wide range of hotel facilities for nature-based activities. Rothiemurchus Centre, a 10,000 hectare estate, organises Land Rover observation tours, quad biking, mountain biking, horse riding, clay pigeon shooting, canoeing and river rafting. "You can come by train from Edinburgh, on the sublime Royal Scotsman, one of the most beautiful trains in the world, to stop at the pretty Victorian station of Aviemore".suggests Philippa Grant, director of the centre. The best part? Take an entire carriage for an exquisite, timeless experience.

In this landscape of fine mornings or the end of the world - depending on the time of day and the quality of the whisky - there are countless castles. They are proud reminders of Gaelic culture, the culture of the clans, the Campbells and the MacLeods. Many are in ruins, their dark towers having finally given up the fight against time and the onslaught of the climate. Like Kilchurn Castle, whose shaky stones stand watch over the tranquil waters of Loch Awe, or Stalker Castle, which sits as if on a tiny island between Oban and Fort William. Urquhart Castle owes its fame to its privileged location on Loch Ness. The visitor centre and amphitheatre overlooking the ruins are the setting for some fine events, with capacity for cocktail parties of up to 150 people. But it's hard to beat Eilean Donan Castle, bathed in the waters of Loch Duich. Everyone has seen this one, of course: it was used as the setting for Highlander and can be hired out for dinners or receptions...

1 ) Near AviemoreThe Rothiemurchus estate stretches along the River Sprey and Loch an Eilein through a forest of ancient pines.
2 ) Dating from the 14th centuryCawdor Castle has opened up to tourism and now hosts dinners and events in a 'so Scottish' atmosphere.
3 ) Underneath its thatched cottage appearanceEdradour, Scotland's smallest distillery established in 1825, produces a whisky with complex notes that are much appreciated by connoisseurs.

Still, and this is the least we can do in Scotland, we can prefer ghost stories, which, far from being tourist folklore, are firmly rooted in popular belief. "They're more like presences. I feel them, but they are pleasant, never frightening".says Lady Angelika Cawdor. This elegant aristocrat still lives in her delightful castle at Cawdor, 15 minutes from Inverness, where Shakespeare is said to have set the scene for Macbeth... With its drawbridge, keep and narrow spiral staircase leading to the parapet walk, the place is absolutely ravishing... You can visit the tapestried dining room, the bedrooms, the kitchens... The castle also hosts very exclusive dinners for around fifty guests. "You could even organise a golf competition on the adjacent nine-hole course, or a treasure hunt in the oak forest and fragrant gardens, which I have decorated with works of contemporary art".adds Lady Cawdor.

Last but not least, no trip to Scotland would be complete without a few whisky tastings! The choice is wide, with so many distilleries along the whisky route that winds its way through the hills to the east of the Highlands.

From famous distilleries such as Glenfiddich, Glenmorangie, Oban and Dalwhinnie, to unknowns like Edradour, just outside Pitlochry, which is quite simply the smallest distillery in Scotland. Alongside a river, an essential element in giving the drink its incomparable peaty flavour, a few small white buildings house two stills distilling whisky in the old-fashioned way and, of course, a tasting room. With an alcohol content of over 50°, "a wee dram - one small glass - is enough to make for some very happy evenings. But above all, never venture to add a soda of any kind. It's sacrilege in Scotland!