Laos: practical guide & good addresses

Identity card

Formalities A passport valid for six months after the date of return and a visa are required. Valid for 30 days, it is issued on arrival at all the country's international airports. Cost: 30 $.

Time difference : +6 h (winter), +5 h (summer).

Currency the kip (RPDL). This is a non-convertible currency. The exchange rate is around 10,000 kips to 1 euro.

Best season The dry season, from November to March, is considered the most suitable, with little rain and mild temperatures. However, the so-called "green" period, from May to September, is largely practicable, with the rains concentrated in the late evening. Although the climate can be scorching, there are fewer tourists and prices are much more affordable. Group size: 20-50 participants.

How to get there

Thai Airways connects Paris to Bangkok daily by three-class Airbus A380. First class offers 12 mini suites with seat-beds, plus an exclusive lounge and bar. Business class has 60 seats that can be converted into horizontal berths, while the 435 seats in economy class each have an LCD screen. The airline also operates the Bangkok-Luang Prabang route with three or four weekly flights, depending on the season, using two-class Airbus 320s, and provides two daily services to Ventiane.  

Tel.: 01 55 68 80 70 Internet: www.thaiairways.fr

Air France alternatively offers five direct flights a week between Paris CDG and Bangkok. To get to Luang Prabang, passengers must then take Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways or Lao Airlines.

Tel: +33 (0) 8 92 70 26 54 Internet: www.airfrance.fr

For more information

Laos Tourist Office

Embassy of Laos. 74, avenue Raymond Poincaré. 75116 Paris Email : ambalaoparis@wanadoo.fr Internet : www.tourismlaos.org

Incoming agency

Phoenix Voyages

Country Office Ban Sangkalok. Luang Prabang, Lao P.D.R - Tel: + 856 71 260 102 - Email: info@phoenixvoyages.com Internet: www.phoenixvoyages.com

In Paris: Soazig Lemoine. Tel: 06 61 78 78 83 - Email: phoenixfrance01@ phoenixvoyages.com

Luang Prabang

Hotels

Belmond Phou Vao Residence

Situated on Phou Vao, the "hill of the kite", 15 minutes from the centre, the hotel boasts a breathtaking view of the town and surrounding mountains. Built in a traditional style in the middle of a lush garden, the hotel cultivates discretion and elegance. The 32 rooms (59m2) and two suites (70m2), with rosewood furniture and teak floors, each have a private terrace with sun loungers. The quiet location is ideal for small groups wishing to hold business meetings. The library can accommodate up to 30 people. The gourmet restaurant features Laotian fusion cuisine and opens onto a terrace overlooking a beautiful infinity pool.

3 PO Box 50 - Tel: +856 71 212530 Email: reservations.rpv@belmond.com Internet: www.belmond.com

The Luang Say Residence

The concept of this hotel, just a 10-minute walk from the town centre, is to create a colonial residence that could have been home to the first explorers of Laos. Opened in 2010, the hotel cultivates references to local mansions from the early 20th century: sheltered outdoor galleries, dark parquet floors, period-inspired sofas, four-poster beds fitted with mosquito netting... Close to the city's night market, the hotel, which is affiliated to Small Luxury Hotels of the World, comprises 24 suites ranging from 43 m2 to 73 m2, divided into five buildings. The restaurant La Belle Epoque offers a refined Asian menu. Tropical garden, swimming pool, bicycles available, as in most hotels. The group also manages Mekong Cruises.

4-5 ban Phonepheng. P.O. Box 507 Tel: + 856 71 260 891 Email: info@luangsayresidence.com Internet: www.luangsayresidence.com

Sofitel - Hôtel de la paix

Just a 15-minute walk from the centre, the Hôtel de la Paix was successively the residence of the French governor, a barracks and then a detention centre for political prisoners. The listed building, with its vast central courtyard, has been remarkably converted into 23 suites. Each suite has its own courtyard and small private garden to the rear, some with swimming pools. With its spaciousness and zen-like layout, the hotel breaks away from the colonial spirit and plays the contemporary architecture card. And it's a great success. Meeting room for 30 people in a traditional house, restaurant, swimming pool.

Manomai Street - Tel: +856 71 260 777 Email: book@hoteldelapaixlp.com Internet: www.hoteldelapaixlp.com

Victoria Xienthong Palace

On the banks of the Mekong in a quiet street in the city centre, the Victoria is housed in what was the last residence of the royal family. Some of the 26 rooms have a view of the Mekong. Although the bathrooms are not exactly up to today's standards, the colonial architecture, the location on a balcony overlooking the river and the old-fashioned furnishings all combine to create a charming authenticity. Meeting room for 30 people. Fine dining provided by a French chef. Manager attentive to every need. No swimming pool, but ideal location.

Kounxoau Road - Tel: +856 7121 3200 Email: reservation@victoriahotels.asia Internet: www.victoriahotels.asia

Villa Maly

This elegant Art Deco boutique hotel is housed in a 1938 residence built for a member of the royal family. The original villa has been restored and complemented by several buildings scattered around the garden. They house 33 rooms packed with literary references and featuring colonial furnishings to create an ambience conducive to daydreaming. This comfortable hotel, with its attentive staff, is a real charmer. Magnificent tropical garden. Very graphic black and white mosaic swimming pool. A little out of the way, but less than 10 minutes' walk from the centre. The group also manages Kamu Lodge and Nava Mekong, for lunch and dinner cruises.

BP 78 - Tel: +856 71 253 902 Email: info@villa-maly.com Internet: www.villa-maly.com

Restaurants

Tangor

Tangor offers fusion cuisine made with simple ingredients and skilfully prepared by a French couple who are as friendly as they are professional. Quite simply, this makes it the best restaurant in town. Two marvels not to be missed are the fish ceviche marinated in olive oil and flavoured with lemongrass, and the panna cotta with lime caramel and basil. The decor also stands out for its subdued lounge atmosphere, more urban than neo-colonial, with a nod here and there to Indochina via vintage posters. Ideally located, close to the Royal Palace, the restaurant can be reserved for 22p. . The team also provides a catering service for aperitifs and picnics.

Sisavangvong Rd - Tel: +856 71 260 761 Email: thibault@letangor.com Internet: www.letangor.com

Ock Pop Tok

A little way from the centre, on the banks of the Mekong, this restaurant sheltered under a straw hut serves tasty Laotian cuisine: bamboo shoots stuffed with chicken, fish fillets with lemongrass and basil grilled in a banana leaf... The place is run by a fair trade association which promotes local textile crafts and organises several weaving and batik-making courses. Pretty tropical garden. Can be reserved for 40 people.

25/10 Ban Saylom - Tel: +856 71 212 597 Email: info@ockpoptok.com Internet: ockpoptok.com

Tamarind

Always crowded, it's a must for an introduction to the flavours of Laotian cuisine, whose dishes, always accompanied by sticky rice, are enhanced by a wide variety of aromatic herbs. Among them, Mok Pa - fish stewed in a banana leaf - is a real treat. For dessert, try the Khao Gam, a purple sticky rice flavoured with coconut milk and accompanied by exotic fruits. Warm service, friendly atmosphere and a pleasant location on the banks of the Nam Khan River. 35 covers. The team also organises cookery classes.

Kingkitsarath Rd - Tel: +856 20 77 770 484 Email: info@tamarindlaos.com Internet: www.tamarindlaos.com

The 3 Nagas

In a charming traditional house opposite the eponymous boutique hotel run by the Accor group, this charming little restaurant has made a name for itself by concocting succulent Lao dishes. In the town centre, in the quiet part of the main street.

Ban Vatnong, Sakkaline Road, P.O. Box 722 - Tel :+856 71 253 888 Email : book@3-nagas.com Internet : www.3-nagas.com

Coconut Garden

Right in the centre of town, this no-fuss restaurant serves good Lao and Western cuisine in a pleasant setting. Philippe, who runs the establishment, is a well-known figure in Luang Prabang. He arrived in 1999 when there were just three hotels, compared with 66 today, and now runs two other restaurants (the Elephant and the Green Elephant), as well as the Ban Vant Sene café.

Sisavangvong Rd - Tel: +856 71 252 482 Internet: www.elephant-restau.com

Vientiane

Hotel

Settha Palace

In the same family since it was founded in 1932, this venerable institution captivates guests with its authentic ambience and old-fashioned charm, as well as its spacious accommodation. 29 rooms and suites, ranging in size from 35m2 to 70m2, with delightfully old-fashioned furnishings and impeccable comfort, and white and black Buren-style marble bathrooms. The swimming pool, shaded by palm and coconut trees, is a delight. Two meeting rooms for a total of 140 people.

6 Pang Kham Street - Tel: +856 21 217 581 - Internet: www.setthapalace.com

Guides

LaosLonely Planet ; Petit Futé Laos ; Cambodia-LaosHachette ; Luang Prabang and other sites in LaosEd. Olizane

To do

Orchid Trek

Bertrand Laville, a Frenchman who has lived in Ventiane for 10 years, is passionate about orchids and speaks of them like no other. Working on the identification and classification of Laotian varieties, he has created a conservation pool for endangered species and designed several instructive and original treks in Phu Khao Kouay national park. Three one- or two-day tours are available for small groups in the company of a botanical expert in this park, which covers 2,000 km2 of semi-deciduous forest, jungle and orchids in abundance. It is possible to stay with local people or spend the night in a tent in the forest to really get off the beaten track.

Ventiane Orchids. Ban Phonethong Tchomany. Unit 59/642. Vientiane Tel: +856 (0) 20 22 20 15 80 - Email: bertrand@vientianeorchidees.com Internet: www.vientianeorchidees.com